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I noticed a post earlier about using this software for Canon RAW files.  It came with my Canon T2i but I really haven't tried using it -- just a quick read-thru with one file.  I did see that it seems to work better with the Canon CR2 files than my Photoshop Elements works with NEF files. 
I think the earlier post was from FD-regular (amateur, etc).  Would someone care to offer more info on this software, PLEASE?

PS:  doesn't this also have some video capability?

Yap it comes with the cam (in my case 5DII) and the main use is treating RAW. As Photoshop never gives backwards updates on RAW formats, they force you to always buy the next version. I'm happy with CS2 but it doesn't handle CR2 files. DPP does just that. I use it for adjusting the WB, the CA and a little bit of sharpening (1) as it is better from RAW. I also use it to adjust the exposure since the RAW has a larger dynamic range than a 16-bit TIF and certainly an 8-bit JPG. You need to export this to 16 bit TIF and open it in PS. Don't save the edited RAW!

Especially when you have a Canon lens, the CA (fringe) reduction in DPP is superb and automatic since the program contains the lens profile. Stay away from all the sliders in that case.

Especially in your landscapes, you will love the high dynamic range and export 2 TIFS, one with emphasis on the shadows, one with emphasis on the highlights. Import both in PS, in 2 layers, and selectively erase at wish to obtain some pseudo-HDR.
No DPP is only for still raws.

1 - It doesn't matter, PE or PS. You will have to export the images in TIF from DPP anyways (write to disk), so whatever can read TIF is fine.

2 - It's not really HDR but you can exploit the fact that a RAW (depending on cam) has more dynamic range as a JPG. You can export TIF-d with all the shadows well structured (highlights are blown out, histogram clipped at the right) and a TIF-l (all highlights recovered, shadow a dark patch, histogram clipped at the left).
Since DPP doesn't have layers, you'll have to selectively erase in PS. I don't know if it would work in a HDR program but you could try.

3 - Losing registered software is never a problem. You can send them an email with your info and they will replace it.

1 - You could do that if your image is OK in DPP, but personally I love to tweak always in layers (hence PS), and then you're better off in TIF. JPG is a lossy format and it should always be the last step before uploading, with no way back. Don't reopen it or you get generation loss. TIF is lossless and keep that as your master copy. You can reopen/save it an endless number of times (for retweaking) without loss. (see my compendium under lossy and TIF).

2 - I don't see how skipping a step can reduce artifacts, but probably you mean starting from RAW. Well RAW has more info (dynamic range) than JPG, so if you stretch RAW out in under- or overexposed shots, you will get less artifacts than if you do the same in the reduced JPG. Of course, RAW isn't a miracle - but it's a way to save borderline shots. Most of the time you will get pixelation or artifacts when you stretch the luminance range of an under- or overexposed shot, or one with too little contrast (the histogram flocking together in the middle). If you stretch that in PS, you will "cook" new info that wasn't there and that's perceived as pixelation.
Not only by stretching luminance you'll get it, but also by too much saturation, USM mask, and especially oversharpening.

Well you have it there, just try it out and play with it. I was surprised BaldricksTrousers used it too. Of course some people trust Lightroom but last year I saw a group of professional assignment photographers work with it and it's not my cup of tea for stock.

Any link?

If you do that, you should certainly include the CA in your workflow. It's superb and it's just 15 sec more. I didn't do video yet on my 5DII, but I think I saw some video things when installing the 5DII software. Not sure. I had glitches in my recorded video but Richard (RT) told me it had to do with the type of my CSF card.