Author Topic: Shooting models for tack-sharp images (Read 14525 times)

rubyroo · « **Reply #25 on:** October 06, 2010, 11:56 »

Quote from: Jonathan Ross on October 06, 2010, 03:32

I shoot people at 1/30th hand held in available light and have no trouble if it isn't an action shot.

Seriously? Either you're a statue that can type, or I have St. Vitus Dance...

I can't go below a 60th handheld without a bit of shake. I don't get on with monopods at all - I much prefer a tripod (I use a very lightweight Slik).

Dr Bouz · « **Reply #26 on:** October 06, 2010, 13:30 »

i had shooting session yesterday - i used remote trigger for studio strobes, and yes -of course - the camera was on the tripod almost all the time. for some 10 shots i used monopod, and for some 10 shots -while i was lying on the floor i hold my camera in hand (and these are also sharp) - but when you lie down shaking is quite reduced. (similar like differences when you shoot in standing position using handgun vs gun). i used 70-200lens.
so -my advice is - to use tripod/monopod whenever you can.

bimbo8723 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 06, 2010, 18:21 »

I never use a tripod either, I find it restrictive. Its difficult to adjust to the model when you're tethered. If you use the right newbielink:http://promodelposes.com [nonactive] then its less of an issue.

Just using the right aperture will make the difference.

Dr Bouz · « **Reply #28 on:** October 07, 2010, 04:50 »

what is connection in between model poses, and using tripod for shooting. (my question would be - what do model pose has to do with hand shaking? how can model pose reduce handshaking on 70/200@200mm when you shoot some closeup?

condra · « **Reply #29 on:** October 16, 2015, 16:58 »

Quote from: garrinh on September 27, 2010, 14:18

Thanks everyone - I really appreciate hearing your thoughts on the subject. Are there any Nikon-made lenses you would recommend that would deliver what I'm looking for? I recently purchased a Nikkor 18-200mm and a Nikkor 50mm/1.8, probably not going to accomplish what I'm after.

The Nikon 50mm 1.8G is a stellar lens.

skyfish · « **Reply #30 on:** October 17, 2015, 03:05 »

I rarely use a tripod. Compare to others seems i have extremely steady hands - many of my low light photos are taken with 1/15, 1/30 and even with 1/8(if longer - of course, something supported my camera :-)). Anyway i try to use max speed when it is possible. In such conditions it is more important that subject does not move, not hands of a photographer. In studio with models usually it is 1/200-400 for me. BTW - for low light i try to use less heavy lens of course and not my favorite 24-70

JPSDK · « **Reply #31 on:** October 17, 2015, 06:35 »

I do photograph human models in the studio, but I also photograph macros of natural things such as flowers and caterpillars.

And yes I use a tripod, so I can be sure to place dof where it is relevant. My hands wobble to much to get fx a hair from an eyelash or a mosquito wing placed correctly in focus.
Then Ill qoute myself: sharpness is an illusion based on focus and the quality of light.
Because when first you have the basics right, like shutterspeed and you have timed the strobes glimse, its all about putting contrasts into your picture, so you have something to draw sharpness out of.

I do that by basically creating a soft light environment 45 degrees to 45 degrees, Rembrant light and THEN add a strong light from the side that can produce shadows.
That means that fx the eyelashes of a blueeyed blonde has a dark shadow on the back of each on them, and such they can be processed into extreme sharpness, or into something else if you want to. The point is, I have created pixels, by adding graduated shadows, so I have something to work with in photoshop in any way I choose, sharpness is one of them.

JPSDK · « **Reply #32 on:** October 17, 2015, 06:51 »

Quote from: garrinh on September 27, 2010, 14:18

Thanks everyone - I really appreciate hearing your thoughts on the subject. Are there any Nikon-made lenses you would recommend that would deliver what I'm looking for? I recently purchased a Nikkor 18-200mm and a Nikkor 50mm/1.8, probably not going to accomplish what I'm after.

For a long time I used a nikon d 200 and an 18 - 200 mm nikor to produce stock.
The lens was a bit soft, but that could be manipulated, and the cameras range was not great, so I used HDR.

BUT... I could handhold, with VR, a person or ar butterfly in low light conditions, such as 1/30 on 200 mm, and get it (reasonably) sharp.
A splendid combination, that d 200 and that 18-200. Perfect for stock. But now its outdated.

JPSDK · « **Reply #33 on:** October 17, 2015, 07:02 »

BTW. I have all kinds of fancy old lenses: 50 mm a 1,2. 85 mm 1,8, both famous primes, and some fancy teles also: like 500 mm and 400 mm.
They are all useless for stock. I never use them.
For stock I use my trusty macros or wide angles (sigma 150 and 14mm) and the newest nikor 20-85.

amperial · « **Reply #34 on:** November 01, 2015, 15:54 »

shutterspeed+lights.

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Author Topic: Shooting models for tack-sharp images (Read 14525 times)

rubyroo

Dr Bouz

bimbo8723

Dr Bouz

condra

skyfish

JPSDK

JPSDK

JPSDK

amperial

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