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Author Topic: Isolating photos, the right way  (Read 6265 times)

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« on: October 18, 2014, 10:58 »
0
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


w7lwi

  • Those that don't stand up to evil enable evil.
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2014, 12:08 »
+5
If I can't shoot the image isolated I use the pen tool.  TIP ... if you isolate an image using the pen tool, make a clipping path from the selection and save that.  That way you can use the cutout for whatever composite you are after and you can upload a JPEG with the clipping path for buyers to use.  No point in wasting the time it took to make the selection for just one use.  And you never know when you may wish to use the cutout image in the future.  Example, the CANVA use of PNG images.  I had a hundred or more images with clipping paths.  Took only seconds to make isolated PNG's out of them and upload.  All seem to be selling quite well at the moment.  A continued return on my original time investment.

« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2014, 12:18 »
0
PEN Tool rulz!

Beppe Grillo

« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2014, 12:41 »
0
Pen tool of course!
All the rest sucks

« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2014, 16:33 »
0
If I can't shoot the image isolated I use the pen tool.  TIP ... if you isolate an image using the pen tool, make a clipping path from the selection and save that.  That way you can use the cutout for whatever composite you are after and you can upload a JPEG with the clipping path for buyers to use.  No point in wasting the time it took to make the selection for just one use.  And you never know when you may wish to use the cutout image in the future.  Example, the CANVA use of PNG images.  I had a hundred or more images with clipping paths.  Took only seconds to make isolated PNG's out of them and upload.  All seem to be selling quite well at the moment.  A continued return on my original time investment.

Yeah, there are instances when I've saved the clipping path. Most of the time I'm just isolating vehicles or people for advertisements. So if I need to use it again I just grab the tiff and drop it in.

« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2014, 16:48 »
+6
I use the pen tool whenever possible and save the clipping path. If an edge is particularly gnarly, I use the quick selection tool, then add a layer mask. Next, I use the Mask Edge/Refine Mask. I set the edge Contrast to around 40, which gives me a pretty crisp edge. That allows me to cut in, or add to the mask with a hard edge brush. Once I get the mask just right, I use the Blur More filter on the mask to soften the edge. Works like a charm!




« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2014, 17:48 »
+9
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


The best process is to do it in camera.  The pen tool will give a result that needs to be modified because any good isolation will have variable softness across all edges.  That's why clipping paths aren't a solve all answer.

shudderstok

« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2014, 18:15 »
+1
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


The best process is to do it in camera.  The pen tool will give a result that needs to be modified because any good isolation will have variable softness across all edges.  That's why clipping paths aren't a solve all answer.


agree with sean, shoot it right the first time and you won't need to tinker with tools later.

« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2014, 18:28 »
+1
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


The best process is to do it in camera.  The pen tool will give a result that needs to be modified because any good isolation will have variable softness across all edges.  That's why clipping paths aren't a solve all answer.


Exactly. What is this 'pen tool' of which you speak? Duh!

« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2014, 18:35 »
+4
Some of you are forgetting that Clipping Paths are much sought after from buyers. It is very easy to soften a selection from a Clipping Path. It adds to the saleability.

« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2014, 19:01 »
+4
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


The best process is to do it in camera.  The pen tool will give a result that needs to be modified because any good isolation will have variable softness across all edges.  That's why clipping paths aren't a solve all answer.


Exactly. What is this 'pen tool' of which you speak? Duh!

Well yes, obviously shooting the object isolated is going to be "better" however, this is earth and cars aren't parked on white nor are people always in white rooms.  ;D

« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2014, 19:06 »
+3
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


The best process is to do it in camera.  The pen tool will give a result that needs to be modified because any good isolation will have variable softness across all edges.  That's why clipping paths aren't a solve all answer.


agree with sean, shoot it right the first time and you won't need to tinker with tools later.


tried that, but the buffalo wouldn't stand still for me

« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2014, 21:34 »
0
I use the pen tool whenever possible and save the clipping path. If an edge is particularly gnarly, I use the quick selection tool, then add a layer mask. Next, I use the Mask Edge/Refine Mask. I set the edge Contrast to around 40, which gives me a pretty crisp edge. That allows me to cut in, or add to the mask with a hard edge brush. Once I get the mask just right, I use the Blur More filter on the mask to soften the edge. Works like a charm!





That looks really good! As I mentioned in the article sometimes I do "a little" blurring after placing it but, never more than a couple pixels to soften the edge a bit ... Mostly, I'm doing this to import in to InDesign for advertisements and things ... in many ways you could look at it as an "end users guide to isolating photos" The stock agency my company goes through doesn't have many isolated images, and most of them aren't that great.

Lightrecorder

« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2014, 13:21 »
0
I've been favoring the pen tool. What process do you guys use?
http://drpgraphicdesign.com/isolating-photos-right-way/


The best process is to do it in camera.  The pen tool will give a result that needs to be modified because any good isolation will have variable softness across all edges.  That's why clipping paths aren't a solve all answer.


agree with sean, shoot it right the first time and you won't need to tinker with tools later.


tried that, but the buffalo wouldn't stand still for me
  ;D

« Reply #14 on: October 20, 2014, 07:38 »
+1
i shoot isolated with 3 to 5 lights...one behind, one under for isolation.... and others to give shape to the object (left, right, up)...taslucient background is needed

« Reply #15 on: October 20, 2014, 13:34 »
0
i shoot isolated with 3 to 5 lights...one behind, one under for isolation.... and others to give shape to the object (left, right, up)...taslucient background is needed
That seems like a lot of equipment and work for micro ... Hopefully you're being compensated enough to make it worth it.

fritz

  • I love Tom and Jerry music

« Reply #16 on: October 20, 2014, 16:07 »
0
Using KnockOut! For less than minute object is perfectly isolated.

« Reply #17 on: October 20, 2014, 16:22 »
+2
i shoot isolated with 3 to 5 lights...one behind, one under for isolation.... and others to give shape to the object (left, right, up)...taslucient background is needed
That seems like a lot of equipment and work for micro ... Hopefully you're being compensated enough to make it worth it.
Chinese lights are cheap! Saved time is worth IMHO.

« Reply #18 on: October 21, 2014, 04:17 »
+1
Chinese lights are cheap! Saved time is worth IMHO.

that is the point....you can isolate perfectly with a budget of around 70-100 euro...of coarse is nothing easy-to-move and looks like gypsy but it works very good....
...personally i have space reserved for this set up and i don't need every time to set up and down...i just go there with objects, food, wathever and shoot....4-5 mins per object, and 20 seconds in ps just to check perfection of white and eventually a fast correction.....around 5-6 mins per image

photoshopping maybe require double time per image (compared to this classical method)...multiply for 1500/2000 image, you have more than 70 hours added to your workflow...i think a 100 euro investment is really ridicolous compared to this time-saving, of coarse for someone doing a lot of isolations (like me)
« Last Edit: October 21, 2014, 04:25 by mojaric »

« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2014, 16:58 »
0
mojaric, I am new with isolated shooting. Could you recommend which lighting equipments you use? And is there any "ebay" version of them?

I'd like to set up isolated shooting in a 1.5m x 1.5m space mainly for food and equipment. Ii it suitable?


 

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