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Author Topic: Best noise reduction program  (Read 6651 times)

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aly

« on: December 11, 2013, 01:16 »
0
I use PS reduce noise sometimes but is there any others out there any one recommends?Thanks.


« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2013, 01:57 »
+1
If you get the exposure right and don't overprocess you should very rarely need noise reduction. When you do need it, PS is fine, especially using it in Camera Raw.

We regularly shoot at 800-1600 ISO without needing NR.

« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2013, 03:17 »
+2
I occasionally use Imagenomic Noiseware to smooth noisy night skies. I think it does a better job than PS or Lightroom noise reduction, mainly due to the large range of controls and presets.

« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2013, 03:31 »
0
I just bought Topaz DeNoise.  I'm really happy with the results. They offer free 30 days trial. I got mine at discounted price on Black Friday sales.

Beppe Grillo

« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2013, 04:51 »
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I use Noiseware (Imagenomic).
Once you have understood how to manage well the settings it is really very powerful and gives very good results.

« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2013, 05:08 »
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I regularly shoot with a 7D, and definitely need noise reduction. The best choice in my case is Topaz Denoise ( PS plugin )

« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2013, 06:24 »
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Another vote for Topaz DeNoise

« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2013, 06:39 »
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I use Neat Image when really necessary, but as Travelling-light says, it's best to try and avoid noise reduction if at all possible.  Seems to work well, but I've no experience with anything else.

When I do use it though, I use it very sparingly and on a separate layer, with a mask so only the bits needing it are visible, like in the sky or whatever.

Beppe Grillo

« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2013, 06:49 »
0
It is not easy to say which one is better between DeNoise and Noiseware.
They surely both do a good job.

Personally I tend to prefer Noiseware because it is faster (and when you have series of images to denoise it is not negligible) and I find that it has a better enhance of details/contrast.

But probably the use experience with one of the other has a great importance in our appreciations.

AYA

« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2013, 09:58 »
+1
I use Dfine2 from Nik software and I'm really happy with it. I never use the noise reduction at 100% as it starts to look fake and affect sharpness so my technique is to reduce contrast noise correction to 50% and color noise to 80%. They have a trial :http://www.google.com/nikcollection/

hope it helps!

« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2013, 10:17 »
0
If you get the exposure right and don't overprocess you should very rarely need noise reduction. When you do need it, PS is fine, especially using it in Camera Raw.

We regularly shoot at 800-1600 ISO without needing NR.

Regularly at 800-1600 ISO ?? For stock?
Can You let us know which camera do You have?

« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2013, 10:35 »
+2
I used neat image when I started with a nikon d 50.
After upgrading, I dont use anti noise software anymore.
If I find noise in a picture I use selective blur (gaussian 1 pix) and evt resizing.

Exposure is important, so is a tripod.








« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2013, 12:15 »
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I used Neat image years ago and liked it, however iStock did not, I was overdoing it I can now see in hindsight.  I then started using gauzian blur in Elements selectively and it worked very well on skies, also passed inspection at IS.  Lately I have used Lightroom selectively.  I must add that I don't shoot "noisy" photos for stock very often, just for my own fun so I can do what I like. 

« Reply #13 on: December 11, 2013, 12:15 »
0
.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2014, 00:15 by Audi 5000 »

« Reply #14 on: December 11, 2013, 12:35 »
+1

Regularly at 800-1600 ISO ?? For stock?
Can You let us know which camera do You have?

Yes, for stock. Not for the micros, though, that sort of work mostly goes to Alamy or Age.

The 5D2 is OK at 800 and the Panasonic GH2 can manage 1600 on the right subject. The main thing is to avoid having to open shadows. Blue skies can be a problem on the Canon, and a little NR on just the red channel can be helpful.

« Reply #15 on: December 11, 2013, 12:45 »
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I rarely need to use noise reduction but, when I do, I use Lightroom. I'm surprised there has been only one minor mention of it so far.

« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2013, 14:14 »
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When I shoot with my D700 I don't need noise reduction but if I'm out at night and hand-holding with my D5100 or Coolpix P7000 (a point and shoot that shoots RAW), sometimes I need it and I've found that in most cases the Nik Dfine filter works best as long as I throttle it back from 100%.

Noise reduction in LR works well too though since I'm shooting with Nikons I find that the Nik filters seem to work a bit better, especially if I'm dealing with skies. I keep sharpening and NR at 0 in LR and in camera, and find that if a photo needs NR it's best to do that first in Define, followed by a slight tweak on a luminosity layer with Nik RAW pre-sharpener.

I use a tripod often but if I'm walking around somewhere at night, I don't always have one along, and as I tend to carry one of my lighter cameras rather than my heavy D700 if I'll be out for hours, I know I'll need to do a little post to deal with nighttime noise.

I used to add the Nik polarizing filters to my skies to make them even bluer, but found that upped the noise substantially as does any graduated filter used in post, so I've gone back to using them on camera. Getting it right from the start is always best, but the huge ISO range of today's cameras gives you a chance to shoot so much even under less than ideal situations, and when the situation is less than ideal, finding good NR software can really save the day.

I know this is a bit off-topic, but I love all the Nik filters, some of which I've been using since 2007 along with Nikon NX2 - which was my go-to software until Google sent me the Nik filters for PS. If you haven't tried out the Nik filters I'd definitely suggest you check them out. I think the entire range can be purchased now for $150.  Color Efex Pro and Silver Efex Pro are both really fun to work with and give you some amazing options.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2013, 14:23 by wordplanet »


« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2014, 19:31 »
0
Topaz DeNoise

« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2014, 06:13 »
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I never shoot more than iso 400 on X-E2 and 5D3. It's a waste of time and energy for "mass production stuff" like stock photography. I do carry Gorilla pod though. Takes a bit more time to shoot saves a lot of time on post.

If you ever need NR LR is already good especially with masking built in now.

« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2014, 07:39 »
0
+1 for Topaz DeNoise

« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2014, 11:25 »
+1
Dfine from NIK Software, beacause they have this really good U-Point technology, so I can reduce noise exactly where it is necessary (if it is ever necessary).

Goofy

« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2014, 11:51 »
0
It's called a tripod and ISO 100 setting- now noise is gone  ;)


ShadySue

« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2014, 11:52 »
+1
It's called a tripod and ISO 100 setting- now noise is gone  ;)
Try telling that to any moving subject.

« Reply #23 on: January 19, 2014, 12:39 »
0
It's called a tripod and ISO 100 setting- now noise is gone  ;)
Try telling that to any moving subject.

Or an indoor setting with low light and Security that won't let you bring a tripod in.

I use Neat Image, but that's because I made my choice when there were fewer options than there are now.  Don't know what I'd choose if I was making the decision now.

ShadySue

« Reply #24 on: January 19, 2014, 13:12 »
0
I use ACR. As it meets my needs, I haven't tried anything that would cost even more money.


 

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