Quote from: nadavgs4 on January 09, 2016, 04:08

I can get nikon d3300 or t5i (700d) canon.
I heard nikon got a little better IQ because of the big sensor and resolution but the canon got more tools like AE Bracketing and bigger buffer that make it kinda more proffesional i think.
Video is not interest me, i buy the camera for stills ONLY so all the advantages that reffer to video isnt important to me.

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Those cameras basically have the same size sensor and the resolution differences aren't going to mean much between them.

If features like AE bracketing are very important to you (I can't think of a time I've ever even used that one) then go with the one with the features you need.
I have a feeling you don't have a really great idea of what you need so I wouldn't sweat it.

Don't worry about which camera is "more professional". That is a description that is for the person using the camera more than one for the camera. Neither of these bodies is particularly high end but either will be more than you need as a beginner. Use your money for lenses and classes on the fundamentals of photography.

Quote from: Chichikov on January 09, 2016, 17:10

If you learn to expose correctly, use histograms and shoot in raw the bracketing is useless�
I would not consider it a valid option for a decision in a choice.
The most important is the image quality, all the rest is only accessory.

Lol there are many reasons to bracket. One shot does not always get it.

Quote from: Chichikov on January 10, 2016, 03:07

Quote from: Mantis on January 09, 2016, 21:01

Quote from: Chichikov on January 09, 2016, 17:10

If you learn to expose correctly, use histograms and shoot in raw the bracketing is useless�
I would not consider it a valid option for a decision in a choice.
The most important is the image quality, all the rest is only accessory.

Lol there are many reasons to bracket. One shot does not always get it.

Can you be more precise?��

Sure. First, I make this statement based on NOT having MIRACLE PS skills, but having basic PS skills. But even with good PS skills, bracketing is extremely helpful. From a practicality viewpoint, it depends on what you shoot and when you shoot it, talking about, say, landscape photography.

1. HDR - typically requires three or more shots, but sometimes can be well replicated with software, again, it just depends on what the situation lends. But if you want to have the best of both worlds in your shots, you can shoot raw three times and go home with the ability to combine for HDR and/or just choose the best exposure for your aesthetic needs.

2. Bright sky darker foreground - a very common occurrence.  Even if one shoots raw, it's often hard to get a good balance of light (due to dynamic range limits) between the bright sky and a earth tone or larger foreground. It just depends on the sky contents (bright clouds, all blue sky, sun angle, etc), angle of sun etc. I frequently shoot 2-3 images of the same scene in raw and blend them later. I can push raw to some extent but at some point it becomes best from a quality standpoint to bracket and blend in post.

3. Using flash on close subjects. Below is an image that I blended two images, one with a flash and one without. Could it have been done in one shot? Probably. In this example I was shooting three systems at once so I didn't have time to concentrate on getting it right as I saw it with rapidly changing light conditions. Simply put it was just easier to bracket and create the image later.

4. City scares also benefit from bracketing, especially when you have backlit buildings. Very hard to get proper exposure without bracketing and blending later in post.

5. I shoot a lot around reefs at beaches where the reef is dark brown and the sky is either cloudy and bright or blue and not as bright. Using one exposure over the other with a single image in raw can be challenging. To ensure I walk away with usable content I bracket and blend later.

6. Also, when you are shooting on the fly bracketing is smart. For example, I was driving some highland areas in Hawaii and there were really no places to park, just pull off the road, jump out and shoot.  I would jump out of the car with my tripod, compose and shoot with auto bracketing to increase offs of a good image. Lots of light variation is the reason I did this, but I am sure a lot of people leverage bracketing as a tool. Exposure bracketing is especially worthwhile in difficult lighting situations when it�s hard to be sure of the �correct� exposure.

7. I won't get into this but there is also bracketing for focus stacking, which may not be related to exposure specifically but is still bracketing and blending in post. RIMGLOW in these forums is very good at this kind of bracketing.

In the studio I've also bracketed many times depending on my subjects color, reflectivity, backdrops and the "look"I am going for. Do I strive to get it in one exposure. You bet. But that's not always the best or easiest way to get that look you want.

To me it just makes sense to take a several extra frames at different brightness levels because I've learned that even with a good looking histogram you never really know what you�ve got until you get back to your the computer that you do your editing on. If one assumes your exposure is always right, they may be sorely disappointed when going through each image and saying, "too bright, too dark"etc.

Exposure bracketing, especially outdoors where usable, is a very useful tool whether you do it manually or with AE.

To Mantis

+1 for your answer.
But I have a different opinion or more exactly a different way to work than your.
I am not telling that mine I better. It is just better for me.

Well, I agree that Bracketing can help if you are not sure of what you are doing.
But using systematically the bracketing a beginner photographer will never learn how to expose correctly.
To make a good photo he also can make a bracketing on 5 exposures and shoot burst of 100 images� then chose the good one (some people do this you know?)� I don�t call this to be a photographer, I call this to push buttons�

If you know how to expose it is very hard that you fail � 1 stop, and 1 stop is nothing for a raw file. If you fail more that � 1 stop� hmm you have no excuse if you were sober while shooting�

The points you expose are all extreme conditions, and in very extreme conditions the use of the bracketing can be a great help.

But

1) With the dynamic range of modern cameras (in particular Nikon ones), if you shoot in raw, HDR is  useless, 90% of the time, if you know what to do with a raw file. (Okay, I don�t like HDR too much)

2) Always shooting in raw you can easily balance sky and foreground with softwares like Lightroom. At the limit, if necessary, you can process your photo in two different ways and then combine them in Photoshop. (Make a virtual copy with different corrections, export the original and the copy as layers in Photoshop and then combine the images as you want).

3) If you know how to set your flash you don�t need bracketing, but to get the best result you have to test of course, and yes in this case bracketing can be an help to speed the process.

4) Again, with the dynamic range of modern cameras, if you shoot in raw you do not need bracketing, but I agree that it can help in some very extreme conditions. For the rest see point 2)

5) Well, as before I think that all this can be done in Lightroom if you expose correctly (mostly ETTR)

6) Tell that to Cartier Bresson, Doisneau, Don McCullin� �

7) I use a lot the focus stacking technique, and it as nothing to do with bracketing, they are two completely different techniques. But you can combine focus stacking and bracketing of course, Helicon Remote does this very well (if you have a lot of time).

I can get nikon d3300 or t5i (700d) canon.
I heard nikon got a little better IQ because of the big sensor and resolution but the canon got more tools like AE Bracketing and bigger buffer that make it kinda more proffesional i think.
Video is not interest me, i buy the camera for stills ONLY so all the advantages that reffer to video isnt important to me.

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