Any pro stock video sellers out there that can answer this...

Which are the best (most saleable) video settings for the 5D Mark III. Pal vs NTSC, framerate etc?

Perhaps I just answered it myself as the Shutterstock Video site says

Quote

We are asking that film clips try and abide by the NTSC standard of 29.97fps (frames per second) with a time limit no longer than 60 seconds.

http://submit.shutterstock.com/guidelines.mhtml

For quick referance here is the pond5 submit guidelines.
http://www.pond5.com/document/video_requirements.html

I'd still be interested to hear people's thoughts.

Hi,

my settings:

ISO 160, 320, 640, max 1250
Shutter 50
PAL
24 FPS for "movie effect"  or  25 FPS
Manual
AF is on LIVE MODE

I use MPEG Streamclip to convert  in PHOTO JPEG 90 % - 95 %

All accepted: SS, IS, P5

I am familiar with Magic lantern as well.
Great because of Zebras, Focus peak, Magic zoom...
Also Audio settings are great...

Kind regards

  Pal vs NTSC is a tough one. I shoot NTSC ( short for never the same color) , but thats just because I'm US based. I have sold plenty in europe so I guess they can convert.
   Anyway, what I really wanted to say is, there are so many different ways to do things that you should just find a way that works for you and stick with it. It's easy to change a setting and then forget the next time you shoot that you did so, since there are so many menus to go through. As others have said, low asa is best, but you don't have the leeway to fix it later that you do in photoshop. The higher asa settings are really pretty good, but they won't put light where there isn't any.
  Tripod is key- you may think you can hold a camera steady, but you can't. Unless you have a really smooth tripod, don't try pans, as they just look amateurish. Same for zoom.
   I try to shoot at 29.97, so I use  1/60 sec as a shutter speed. ASA 200. Higher shutter speeds don't look right, at least to me. Plus if you use HMI lights you get a shutter roll ( here in the US anyway) because of the 60 cycle AC power. This can also happen with flourescents, such as kino-flo.
    If you have the ability to edit with vector scopes ( i.e. the virtual scopes in final cut) it can be a good idea to modify the camera settings to minimal contrast, saturation, no sharpening etc, with idea of capturing as much raw data as possible that gives you more leeway later. The footage will look awful until you adjust it, so don't do this if you are sending it straight through, as in mpeg streamclip.
    Output- I use photo jpeg at 90%, millions of color, no keyframes, square pixels, audio 48khz, 16bit
This may or may not be right, but it works.
    Don't cut you clips right to the part you think will be used to save disk space. Editors need a second or two on either end if they want to cross dissolve, so give them the footage.
    A great resource is Philip Bloom's blog at Prolost dot com.  It's become more commercial over the years, but if you dig there are good discussions on camera settings. For more on asa settings and quality, google "zacuto shootout 2010". It's a very interesting comparison of film and dslr's.

I'm wondering, do you have to apply for video submission at SS like you do with stills? Or is is open if you are an approved contributor of stills?

It's open;  just upload videos and they will be inspected.  You don't even have to be an approved stills contributor, I'm not.

Quote from: Mantis on November 07, 2013, 07:42

I'm wondering, do you have to apply for video submission at SS like you do with stills? Or is is open if you are an approved contributor of stills?

It's open;  just upload videos and they will be inspected.  You don't even have to be an approved stills contributor, I'm not.

Cool. Thanks for the feedback.