Anyone using tumblr for a photgraphy blog/gallery site?

I have a blog on blogger.com where I post some of my artsier photos.  But blogger is becoming a pain.   I've heard that tumblr is easier and more flexible to work with.  

I'm looking for a free way to display some photos.  It needs to be customizable to some extent so I can get a look that satisfies me (no white backgrounds please).  But customizable in a simple way - I'm not grinding through any HTML/CSS.   It doesn't have to be a blog format, but I'd like some way to highlight recent uploads.   And did I mention FREE?

I used to use SmugMug but their customization was a PITA.  I'm sure that today there's something similar, but simpler.