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Author Topic: Editing metallic surfaces  (Read 2585 times)

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« on: January 18, 2015, 23:15 »
0
I always struggle to edit metallic surfaces, such as removing logos on stethoscopes, scratches on metal surfaces, etc. I have tried all of PS's tools for this and none of them give adequate results. The cloned/patched/healed metal surface just tends to end up looking smudged or unreal. Does have anyone have any tips for this?

I have noticed that many metallic surfaces in stock photos have been surface blurred, possibly to hide the effects of this.

(p.s. I thought I had asked this question before, but I don't see it in my old posts)



« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2015, 02:50 »
+1
If the clone tool does not work, I usually try out the smudge tool, sometimes in a long sweep over the logo, sometimes with 2 sweeps from outside the logo inwards.  But most of the time I first "cut up" the logo with the clone tool and then remove the parts with the patch tool.

« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2015, 03:03 »
+1
Guess I've never really tried ... Usually if the healing brush doesn't do what I want I just paint the crap out of it until I'm happy ... ;)

« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2015, 05:24 »
+1
i edit a lot of jewelry and I usually recreate the parts by carefully painting over them. You need to pay a lot of attention to the reflections on the metal and make sure they remain logical and consistent.

i also polish everything carefully before I take pictures and use gloves when handling objects to avoid fingerprints.

Sometimes I use grey or black cardboard pieces to reflect onto an area with scratches to make it easier to edit later.

Logos I try to either turn them away from the camera or hide them with shallow dof.

it is very difficult to edit mirror surfaces, but you get better with experience.


« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2015, 05:34 »
0
Sometimes I use grey or black cardboard pieces to reflect onto an area with scratches to make it easier to edit later.

Why a grey or black cardboard?  Can you explain? 

« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2015, 07:30 »
+3
What the others said really. Clone, heal and if all else fails rebuild the area by painting. I often use masks too. As cobalt says careful setup can help.  I usually have a look at macro subjects under an illuminated magnifier before shooting. Easier than looking through the camera to see problems I find.

« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2015, 18:15 »
+3
Sometimes I use grey or black cardboard pieces to reflect onto an area with scratches to make it easier to edit later.

Why a grey or black cardboard?  Can you explain?

If you have scratches and smudges, they usually have lines that don't enhance the Outline of the object. By adding your own reflections made of thin pieces of cardboard, you can create interisting looking reflections and shapes. And afterwards it is easier to edit the scratches because you can follow the reflections you created yourself.

Try it sometime, take a metallic bracelet and add your own reflections with cardboard.

Every piece is different, but with practise you can make it easier for yourself. The more you can do in Camera, the better.

« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2015, 01:58 »
+1
Thanks everybody for the great ideas. I'll be putting more practice and setup time into these.


 

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