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Author Topic: Do you use SLOG 2/3 or no picture profile for your stock footage?  (Read 5159 times)

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« on: July 07, 2016, 14:30 »
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Do you use SLOG 2/3 or no picture profile for your stock footage?


alno

« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2016, 17:11 »
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Do you use SLOG 2/3 or no picture profile for your stock footage?

I'm trying to use it but it's very time consuming process of color grading + noise reduction. I guess S-log 2 is not so effective when you have some simple lighting scheme. 

« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2016, 04:30 »
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I agree with you, these process is very time consuming.  If i shoot without SLOG2, i got blown-up highlights in day light. I shoot in 25 frames with 1/50 shutter. Can i solve this problem with ND filter?

alno

« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2016, 04:43 »
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I agree with you, these process is very time consuming.  If i shoot without SLOG2, i got blown-up highlights in day light. I shoot in 25 frames with 1/50 shutter. Can i solve this problem with ND filter?

If you're shooting in day light you'll definitely need high number ND or variable ND filter to keep such a high duration shutter. If you're shooting in S-log2 you'll need ND even more since your minimum ISO is 3200 (Sony A7s) or 800 (RX10mII) for example.

« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2016, 05:52 »
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So i should buy a ND filter first.  :) Is 10 stop the highest value in ND filters?

alno

« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2016, 06:29 »
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So i should buy a ND filter first.  :) Is 10 stop the highest value in ND filters?


I guess not. The most convenient are variable ND's like those IMO: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/variable-neutral-density/ci/22490/N/4011740578?origSearch=variable%20nd

« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2016, 07:55 »
+1
So i should buy a ND filter first.  :) Is 10 stop the highest value in ND filters?

It's the highest COMMON value, but there are higher of course. But you will probably never use a 10-stop for video unless you travel to the sun (or shoot bright things with 1.2 aperture in full sunlight at the equator) - they are for long exposure photography (5+ seconds usually). Can be nice for timelapse.

The most useful will be 3-stop to 6-stop. Most likely 3 and 4 (ND8 and ND16) depending on where you live.

Variable ND filters don't look as good and often give a cross in your frame. For optimal quality, have a setup of high quality filters. It can get quite expensive however...
« Last Edit: July 08, 2016, 07:58 by increasingdifficulty »

« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2016, 13:43 »
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Thanks for the answers. I heard that variable filters strangely produce X pattern in the frame. I should buy ND8 (3stops) or ND 16(4 stops).

« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2016, 13:44 »
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Have you ever had X pattern in the frame? I heard that Tiffen ND filters are good.


So i should buy a ND filter first.  :) Is 10 stop the highest value in ND filters?

It's the highest COMMON value, but there are higher of course. But you will probably never use a 10-stop for video unless you travel to the sun (or shoot bright things with 1.2 aperture in full sunlight at the equator) - they are for long exposure photography (5+ seconds usually). Can be nice for timelapse.

The most useful will be 3-stop to 6-stop. Most likely 3 and 4 (ND8 and ND16) depending on where you live.

Variable ND filters don't look as good and often give a cross in your frame. For optimal quality, have a setup of high quality filters. It can get quite expensive however...

« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2016, 11:40 »
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With a good quality variable ND (I believe it was a Hoya) I had horrible problems of X.
I sent it back immediately. Now I use a 16 for video and much higher value for timelapses

« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2016, 11:43 »
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Which brand ?

« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2016, 12:27 »
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These guys are very good: http://breakthrough.photography

I also have some B+W filters but they have a very, very strong tint that is quite bad. You can get rid of it but I'd prefer filters that are more natural.

alno

« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2016, 16:55 »
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With a good quality variable ND (I believe it was a Hoya) I had horrible problems of X.
I sent it back immediately. Now I use a 16 for video and much higher value for timelapses

X appeared on very wide lens and very high ND's, right? I guess that was general problem of variable ND's, not that Hoya.

« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2016, 03:16 »
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With a good quality variable ND (I believe it was a Hoya) I had horrible problems of X.
I sent it back immediately. Now I use a 16 for video and much higher value for timelapses

X appeared on very wide lens and very high ND's, right? I guess that was general problem of variable ND's, not that Hoya.
Yes, I believe it affects all kind of ND filters.
To be honest I had the problem with X for time lapses (therefore also for still photo), not so much with video, because of the much lower resolution (even with 4k)

« Reply #14 on: July 10, 2016, 11:25 »
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Does Lee have circular filters? All the filters are rectangular at the link below:

http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/bigstopper

« Reply #15 on: July 12, 2016, 16:33 »
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Hey,

 S-log can be very helpful in high contrast situations. An ND will not help with contrast but will allow you to open up more. S-log is great but the post takes a lot of time. We shoot in different codecs depending on the contrast of the shoot saving S-log for only when needed this helps the post workflow. You can shoot S-log on a Sony A7S2 at 1600 iso not 3200 saves you one stop but you will want an ND we use the http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=851445&gclid=CI6vlf3v7s0CFVKVfgodpBIEwg&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051678882%2C&A=details&Q= it is good to about 6 stops before banding, no cross patterns..

Best of luck,
J
« Last Edit: July 16, 2016, 15:05 by Jonathan Ross »

« Reply #16 on: July 13, 2016, 12:26 »
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Schneider ND looks good but little bit expensive.  I heard that variable ND filters can cause some loss in sharpness. Is it true? Sharpness is important specially in 4K footages.


« Reply #17 on: July 14, 2016, 12:20 »
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Depending on what camera you're using. If it's a Sony, use Cine2 or Cine4 with Pro colour as it works the same/similar to SLOG2 but you can shoot at far lower ISO's. Grading is easy enough but aoid SLOG2 with S-Gamut as you'll end up with a yellow cast that is hard to remove. I use Color Finale with FCPx. Plenty of stuff on the net for in camera settings for Cine2/4 with Pro Colour. Camera Sony A7rii & A6300.
« Last Edit: July 14, 2016, 12:22 by HalfFull »

« Reply #18 on: July 22, 2016, 13:09 »
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Thank you. I bought an A6300 for my video works.   I never used cine2 or 4 with pro color before but i will try.


 

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