Why does Adobe reject for quality issues when there's nothing wrong with the submitted photos even viewed at 100 percent?
They just rejected all my photos yet again (a total of 7) for quality but there is nothing wrong. What's going on adobe?
I'm only mildly psychic and can't see your rejected images, so anything I'd say is a total guess. Could you post some examples for people here to see and try to help you figure out why they are being rejected?
I just added one new Dropbox link to see if it works
https://www.dropbox.com/s/30pipmd5luxldef/DSC04742.jpg?dl=0
Beautiful image. But, honestly, I think you might be oversharpening, which is hard to see when the image is small, but if you pixel peep (an annoyance required by stock), it becomes obvious.
I didn't download it but zoomed in to 100% on Dropbox and thought maybe it's a little oversharpened? When I zoom to 195% (roughly equal to 100% with my Retina screen), I can see jpeg artifacts/halos especially around the tree. I'd try again with the RAW file, look at it at 100% (or 200% if you've got a Retina MAC) and make sure you only sharpen to the minimum needed.
It's a really lovely shot. I hope you're not offended but I've made some specific suggestions below:
When you use the Sharpening slider in ACR or LR Classic, you need to pay attention to masking and pixel size. A lot depends on the photo. For a landscape like yours, I'd do a tiny bit of sharpening at 0.8-1.0 pixels and (in the sharpening tool) use masking carefully, trying to avoid doing much if anything to the sky. If you hold down Option (or the PC equivalent) while using the slider, you can see what the masking effects.
Next, create a mask of the sky, invert it, and add in Texture, Sharpening and Clarity very carefully for your scene- sometimes 5 is enough Clarity even on my large 61MP files, and sometimes I can push it higher, but it really depends on the photo. 20 would be very high. Texture is usually more subtle and can usually be pushed higher,
but not always, Again, you need to pay attention to your specific photo. As you move the sliders, very slowly, you need to view all the open spaces and edges carefully to see the effect.
Dehaze will also add contrast, so if you use it to bring up the blues in the sky and canal/river, then maybe decrease your contrast so it's not overdone. Too much contrast can leave halos especially where light meets dark like tree leaves against the sky.
Removing chromatic aberration can also cause halos at the edge of leaves if you push too far. Sometimes you need to paint over the chroma with a mask and just adjust a part if you've got a really deep purple line somewhere without affecting the rest of the photo.
If your photo isn't sharp enough when you use the tools in a subtle way, pushing them won't help, but as others mentioned, you can shrink your file down to where it is sharp. Most stock sites don't need big files. Just bump it to 200% if you have a Retina screen to see what's going on with the actual pixels.
It's a lovely composition, great leading lines and beautiful reflections so worth reworking.
