Author Topic: Skin issue (Read 16118 times)

illstudio · « **on:** October 20, 2009, 13:11 »

I'm 3 months new to MS photography.

Mostly my pics contain people (OK, women) and a good amount of skin is shown. Large amount of shots in shorts, swimwear, tank tops etc...
The problem is when I smooth the skin for that (near) perfect skin complexion, my images get rejected for out of focus or blurry. To be clear; I make sure I dont over-filter. I use just enough to make it look pleasing to the eye. Some agencies allow you to write a note to the reviewer (which I just started doing) but the biggest rejector; BigStock doesnt.

Any ideas?

I use "Portraiture" Plug-in w/CS4 (mac) as recommended by someone on DT.

anonymous · « **Reply #1 on:** October 20, 2009, 14:42 »

try using the clone tool on just the areas you want to correct.

MikLav · « **Reply #2 on:** October 20, 2009, 15:16 »

You better show some full size (crop) examples of your rejected pics, then we could give you better advice.

Graffoto · « **Reply #3 on:** October 20, 2009, 15:26 »

Use spot healing &/or the healing brush + clone tool on the most offensive blemishes.

Leave the rest natural and you should be Ok.

I never use blur/ surface blur on skin.
You can use dodge and burn on a 50% neutral gray layer to even things out more if you like.

Allen · « **Reply #4 on:** October 20, 2009, 15:51 »

Even with the portraiture plug-in I haven't gotten a out of focus rejection before unless the image was out of focus. Show us a 100% crop so we can see for ourselves.

GavinvdM · « **Reply #5 on:** October 20, 2009, 18:18 »

Try not too get the skin to look 100% on a full screen view. Because usually on 100% crop it will look blurry if you dont get it just right.

RT · « **Reply #6 on:** October 20, 2009, 18:38 »

Pay more and get better models

Graffoto · « **Reply #7 on:** October 20, 2009, 21:08 »

Quote from: RT on October 20, 2009, 18:38

Pay more and get better models

That's mean

Actually, I was going to suggest paying for a good MUA might be in order.

anonymous · « **Reply #8 on:** October 20, 2009, 22:44 »

Quote from: RT on October 20, 2009, 18:38

Pay more and get better models

heh heh...I looked at his stuff and the few model phots that i saw looked fine (quality and subject). From my experience, take what you're shooting, make the best of it, and it will match someone's needs. The "super-perfect" shots are a dime-a-dozen...not everybody is looking for the flawless model...sometimes the "real" look is what the client is searching for.
...carry on illstudio, you'll figure it out : )

tempura · « **Reply #9 on:** October 21, 2009, 07:06 »

I apply surface blur at 15, 15 (depending on file) and mask skin, then turn down opacity until original skin is shown.
accordingly surface blur should not afect edges.
have had only one rejection and by turning down the opacity some more it went through.

Perry · « **Reply #10 on:** October 21, 2009, 07:21 »

Quote from: illstudio on October 20, 2009, 13:11

The problem is when I smooth the skin for that (near) perfect skin complexion, my images get rejected for out of focus or blurry. To be clear; I make sure I dont over-filter.

If your filtering is visible (appears blurry), then you are over-filtering.

As some other said, just correct the places with spots, wrinkles or blemishes, don't do any filtering stuff.

And yes, 100% images or crops would help us to judge.

illstudio · « **Reply #11 on:** October 21, 2009, 10:19 »

Quote from: dragon_fang on October 20, 2009, 15:51

Even with the portraiture plug-in I haven't gotten a out of focus rejection before unless the image was out of focus. Show us a 100% crop so we can see for ourselves.

illstudio · « **Reply #12 on:** October 21, 2009, 10:23 »

Here's one I'm about to submit:

Clivia · « **Reply #13 on:** October 21, 2009, 10:56 »

That last one looks a bit soft. We need 100% crops to tell properly. The links you gave are not 100%.

illstudio · « **Reply #14 on:** October 21, 2009, 11:08 »

Quote from: Clivia on October 21, 2009, 10:56

That last one looks a bit soft. We need 100% crops to tell properly. The links you gave are not 100%.

They are 100% if you look above the image on photobucket, its available as 100%.

RacePhoto · « **Reply #15 on:** October 21, 2009, 13:31 »

Quote from: illstudio on October 21, 2009, 11:08

Quote from: Clivia on October 21, 2009, 10:56
That last one looks a bit soft. We need 100% crops to tell properly. The links you gave are not 100%.

They are 100% if you look above the image on photobucket, its available as 100%.

You mean the original size from an XSi is only that tiny picture? 533 x 800 (or 800x533 in the first one) isn't really Full Size from your camera, is it?

The camera takes pictures that are 4272 x 2848 pixels. In other words, you may have uploaded a full size image to photobucket, but it's only showing everyone a reduced websize version.

Why are you shooting at f/25 (or f/22) ISO 400, 1/160th, in the Sun? ISO 100 would help and then you would be at f/11 without the problems of such a small aperture, or you could go to a slightly faster shutter speed and go for f/8. I can't tell what lens, I'm guessing it's some sort of EFS zoom, in which case shoot at F8 when you want maximum sharpness and don't care about depth of field or the background. At 40mm, like the first shot, you don't need to be shooting at f/25!

Nice looking models. Good Luck!

hyperdude · « **Reply #16 on:** October 21, 2009, 21:59 »

I am using Portraiture too and have gotten accepted images without problems. The trick is to just use the default settings for models and then in CS4 fade down a little so to bring the texture back to the model skin. This has work for me so far.

illstudio · « **Reply #17 on:** October 22, 2009, 09:27 »

Quote from: hyperdude on October 21, 2009, 21:59

I am using Portraiture too and have gotten accepted images without problems. The trick is to just use the default settings for models and then in CS4 fade down a little so to bring the texture back to the model skin. This has work for me so far.

Thanks. Can you explain "fade down" exactly? I have CS4 too. How do you do that (your way).
Yes I also use the Portraiture default setting.

illstudio · « **Reply #18 on:** October 22, 2009, 09:31 »

Quote from: RacePhoto on October 21, 2009, 13:31

Quote from: illstudio on October 21, 2009, 11:08
Quote from: Clivia on October 21, 2009, 10:56
That last one looks a bit soft. We need 100% crops to tell properly. The links you gave are not 100%.

They are 100% if you look above the image on photobucket, its available as 100%.

You mean the original size from an XSi is only that tiny picture? 533 x 800 (or 800x533 in the first one) isn't really Full Size from your camera, is it? The camera takes pictures that are 4272 x 2848 pixels. In other words, you may have uploaded a full size image to photobucket, but it's only showing everyone a reduced websize version.

Why are you shooting at f/25 (or f/22) ISO 400, 1/160th, in the Sun? ISO 100 would help and then you would be at f/11 without the problems of such a small aperture, or you could go to a slightly faster shutter speed and go for f/8. I can't tell what lens, I'm guessing it's some sort of EFS zoom, in which case shoot at F8 when you want maximum sharpness and don't care about depth of field or the background. At 40mm, like the first shot, you don't need to be shooting at f/25!

Nice looking models. Good Luck!

I guess photobucket did downsize although it does give an 100% option. Weird. So how to I post 100% crop?

I see what you mean by the ISO

. Its set on auto. Why did it choose 400 in the sun? I just got the Canon Xsi and getting used to it. I was using a 18-200mm Canon lens.

illstudio · « **Reply #19 on:** October 22, 2009, 09:38 »

Quote from: RacePhoto on October 21, 2009, 13:31

Quote from: illstudio on October 21, 2009, 11:08
Quote from: Clivia on October 21, 2009, 10:56
That last one looks a bit soft. We need 100% crops to tell properly. The links you gave are not 100%.

They are 100% if you look above the image on photobucket, its available as 100%.

You mean the original size from an XSi is only that tiny picture? 533 x 800 (or 800x533 in the first one) isn't really Full Size from your camera, is it? The camera takes pictures that are 4272 x 2848 pixels. In other words, you may have uploaded a full size image to photobucket, but it's only showing everyone a reduced websize version.

Why are you shooting at f/25 (or f/22) ISO 400, 1/160th, in the Sun? ISO 100 would help and then you would be at f/11 without the problems of such a small aperture, or you could go to a slightly faster shutter speed and go for f/8. I can't tell what lens, I'm guessing it's some sort of EFS zoom, in which case shoot at F8 when you want maximum sharpness and don't care about depth of field or the background. At 40mm, like the first shot, you don't need to be shooting at f/25!

Nice looking models. Good Luck!

That's Amy. She's my GF. She works for "free".

Perry · « **Reply #20 on:** October 22, 2009, 10:52 »

Quote from: illstudio on October 22, 2009, 09:31

I guess photobucket did downsize although it does give an 100% option. Weird. So how to I post 100% crop?

You crop, and then post.

(Or you find a hosting for full size images)

RacePhoto · « **Reply #21 on:** October 22, 2009, 14:35 »

I'm going to bite my tongue... really hard, and mention these things.

(P) is not portraiture it's Program. It's the next step up from fully automatic Green Box "idiot" mode. (My mistake in reading Portraiture CS4 plugin as P mode. Don't shoot me.)

Select your ISO by using the menu (the ISO selection will appear in the back LCD panel). Set it to ISO 100 for outdoors in bright Sunlight. That's why you use P because you can select the ISO.

Depress the shutter button half way, and turn the main wheel and select the exposure that matches what you want. You can change the shutter speed or aperture this way to make fine changes. This is where you get some creative input beyond Pointing and Shooting.

Please read the manual and maybe get a book on the basics of photography. The camera is a tool, and does not have a brain.

You can't take good pictures using automatic modes the rest of your life. Learn to use TV and AV modes for more control. In tough situations you'll even want to shoot Manual, because the meter can't properly judge the exposure due to light and dark variations.

It's not rocket science, just three basic variables. Time (shutter speed), Light (aperture), and Sensitivity (ISO). That's it. Change any one and the other two change, the photo is still properly exposed. But which you choose to change can make a big difference on what the photo looks like.

Cool thing about digital. Once you buy the camera, it's pretty much free. You can play, experiment and change things and learn. If it doesn't work, heck there's that delete key. Taking 10 photos is about the same as taking 100, except it takes much longer to look at the 100. Be radical, take notes so you can see what you did and how it changed things. People take notes in school, so why not take notes when one is learning photography. You can't remember everything, time of day, lighting, settings. Yes, most of it's in the EXIF data, but a scrap of paper or notebook (AKA analog recording device) is really easy to use also.

Learn how to use the camera as a tool for expressing yourself. It's not just a copying machine!

illstudio · « **Reply #22 on:** October 23, 2009, 08:40 »

Quote from: RacePhoto on October 22, 2009, 14:35

I'm going to bite my tongue... really hard, and mention these things.

(P) is not portraiture it's Program. It's the next step up from fully automatic Green Box "idiot" mode.

Select your ISO by pressing the ISO button on the top of the camera, and then turning the Main dial (the ISO selection will appear in the top LCD panel). Set it to ISO 100 for outdoors in bright Sunlight. That's why you use P because you can select the ISO.

Depress the shutter button half way, and turn the main wheel and select the exposure that matches what you want. You can change the shutter speed or aperture this way to make fine changes. This is where you get some creative input beyond Pointing and Shooting.

Please read the manual and maybe get a book on the basics of photography. The camera is a tool, and does not have a brain. You can't take good pictures using automatic modes the rest of your life. Learn to use TV and AV modes for more control. In tough situations you'll even want to shoot Manual, because the meter can't properly judge the exposure due to light and dark variations.

It's not rocket science, just three basic variables. Time (shutter speed), Light (aperture), and Sensitivity (ISO). That's it. Change any one and the other two change, the photo is still properly exposed. But which you choose to change can make a big difference on what the photo looks like.

Cool thing about digital. Once you buy the camera, it's pretty much free. You can play, experiment and change things and learn. If it doesn't work, heck there's that delete key. Taking 10 photos is about the same as taking 100, except it takes much longer to look at the 100. Be radical, take notes so you can see what you did and how it changed things. People take notes in school, so why not take notes when one is learning photography. You can't remember everything, time of day, lighting, settings. Yes, most of it's in the EXIF data, but a scrap of paper or notebook (AKA analog recording device) is really easy to use also.

Learn how to use the camera as a tool for expressing yourself. It's not just a copying machine!

If you read my post properly you'll see I set the "ISO" on auto, not the camera. I thought I had set it to 100.
I've never set the camera to P mode since I bought it.

"P", "Portraiture"??

Huh?? ("Portraiture" is CS4 plug in software, not a camera setting...)

Thanks for the photography lesson on basics. Ive been using Nikon SLRs (including the underwater Nikonos) since 1973 all on manual. I wont even get into my past with rangefinders. I've only owned a DSLR for a few months and I'm just getting used to all the abilities.
Thanks for the tips.

RacePhoto · « **Reply #23 on:** October 23, 2009, 20:37 »

OK I'm the one who's confused. "I see what you mean by the ISO. Its set on auto. Why did it choose 400 in the sun?" So the camera was picking the ISO, you had to be in one of the basic modes? ISO is manual in P, TV, AV, Manual and A-Dep.

So what mode were you in, TV and you picked 1/160th of a second, or AV and you picked f/25? Or possibly "P"?

Nikonos? I used to have one in the 70s. Loved it until the winder/shutter release decided to go bad! Now you're talking a camera that was pretty much all manual.

Maybe someone who needs to read the message will get something out of it. RTFM.

We pay all this money for automatic cameras with wheels. knobs, settings and modes and then go shoot nearly manual. What's that all about? I had to buy a book when I got my first 10D so I could read and understand what all that junk does. I've been taking pictures with SLRs for 40 years.

ps Still don't see anything wrong with the skin, which is where you started with this.

illstudio · « **Reply #24 on:** October 24, 2009, 10:08 »

Quote from: RacePhoto on October 23, 2009, 20:37

OK I'm the one who's confused. "I see what you mean by the ISO. Its set on auto. Why did it choose 400 in the sun?" So the camera was picking the ISO, you had to be in one of the basic modes? ISO is manual in P, TV, AV, Manual and A-Dep.

So what mode were you in, TV and you picked 1/160th of a second, or AV and you picked f/25? Or possibly "P"?

Nikonos? I used to have one in the 70s. Loved it until the winder/shutter release decided to go bad! Now you're talking a camera that was pretty much all manual.

Maybe someone who needs to read the message will get something out of it. RTFM.

We pay all this money for automatic cameras with wheels. knobs, settings and modes and then go shoot nearly manual. What's that all about? I had to buy a book when I got my first 10D so I could read and understand what all that junk does. I've been taking pictures with SLRs for 40 years.

ps Still don't see anything wrong with the skin, which is where you started with this.

I think I chose the shutter speed as I didnt have a tripod. (my trusted Silk tripod from the 70s finally gave out) I always use either Av or TV, nothing else.

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Author Topic: Skin issue (Read 16118 times)

illstudio

anonymous

MikLav

Graffoto

Allen

GavinvdM

RT

Graffoto

anonymous

tempura

Perry

illstudio

illstudio

Clivia

illstudio

RacePhoto

hyperdude

illstudio

illstudio

illstudio

Perry

RacePhoto

illstudio

RacePhoto

illstudio

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