Author Topic: What is your work flow for shooting and processing? (Read 12791 times)

avava · « **on:** January 06, 2009, 20:42 »

Hi All,

It seemed to me that things were kind of getting away from photography so I thought I would throw out a little questionnaire. How do you run your workflow for shooting and processing images ?
Myself I shoot manually for f stop and shutter speed all the time accept for focus where I choose auto. I usually over expose about 2/3 of a stop sometimes more if I am looking for more mood in the lighting and adjust in post. I shoot Raw so I can have all my data to work from. I shoot hand held as far down as the light and lens will let me then I go to a tripod. I shoot on 16 gig cards and back them up as soon as full. I don't ever shoot with a cable to monitor but I might do more of that this year on some larger projects. I light about 95% of my work with strobes.
I edit in Photo Mechanic because it is so much faster and It has a good tagging system that I am used to. I then switch to Adobe Bridge to process once I am down to my final number of selects. Bridge is so slow uploading I wait till I am done with my editing before touching it. I work in Adobe Camera Raw although some people think there are better processors it works for me and my workflow. Lightroom has been mentioned around here it is just that " changing the workflow thing " is it worth it. I finish up with 100 mg 16-bit files backed up in three places, one off site. Any feed back....

Best,
AVAVA

graficallyminded · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2009, 17:20 »

What's up AVAVA

I shoot raw, mainly Aperture Priority mode or Manual if I'm shooting with strobes (or something you must shoot manual, like the moon). Shutter priority once in a great while, for action. Exposure compensation I just leave right in the middle at zero. I usually end up bringing up the exposure in at least half of my images, but I do it in post.

I dump my card onto a folder, dated with a brief description. I then import it to Lightroom 2 and usually I let it sit at least a few weeks. Very rarely do I end up getting to new images before then. I then cherry pick my best ones, and tweak away in LR2, then export them to my processing folder. Those get tweaked one final time in Photoshop and sometimes Neat Imaged. Then they go in the Micro folder, and they're ready for keywording. I try to replenish that folder with newly edited images, as soon as I dump them on the micros. Every batch I upload, I create a new folder, for example "12-02-08 uploaded SS-BS-FT-DT-CS-FP-SX-123-IS-CR-PM--MP-YM-FM--SC" Long names, but it works for me.

I also use CushyStock! Works awesome for batch uploading to all my ftp's at once.

RT · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2009, 17:49 »

I always shoot RAW 16bit whether stock, assignment or family snaps.

Indoors - Manual everything and use a Sekonic lightmeter, people handheld everything else tripod or studio stand.

Outdoors - Usually AV and AF, tripod if needed.

I use flash (strobes) for the majority of indoor stuff but recently have been playing with other types of lighting, (bought a redhead on eBay - and wow it's bright)

At the moment I use a PC but will switch to a MAC very soon, first thing I do after a shoot is copy all the RAW files (keepers) onto a seperate hard drive, then a RAW copy onto the PC hard drive into my work folder, then convert RAW via Bridge into a working TIFF which I proceed to bugger up in Photoshop to the extent it probably looked better originally.
Keyword etc the TIFF and save onto another hard drive and then save a copy as a JPG which I keep on the PC until they're uploaded to wherever.

Then sit back and watch as nobody buys them.

Edited to add: I don't process in batches, I was telling this to someone once who thought it was a clever way of seeing whether something is selling before commiting too much time to the rest, I actually had to confess that although that sounds a good reason it's actually because I get bored with processing the same types of photo all the time, which is why if you ever look most of my shots come in batches of between 3-6.

One other thing, I normally do a weekend project image, one that I spend more time editing and f***ing around with than I would normally.

madelaide · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2009, 17:49 »

Hmm, do I have a workflow?

I normally use aperture priority, JPEG even with my DSLR (begin using RAW is a goal). When travelling, I backup to my Jobo, otherwise I only copy files to my PC. I check images, delete bad ones and backup to the external HD.

I choose the files I like more, sometimes editing just one, saving it as TIFF. I take note of any adjustments, so I can reproduce them for the other files. I save the final edited version also in JPEG, then keyword it using Exifer and sometimes Irfanview (when I need to resort keywords, or include one somewhere in the middle of the list).

I normally upload to StockXpert first, not only because it's the fastest review, but also because I find their technical rejections normally the most valid. If all goes well, I submit it to other sites and prepare other images on the same series, if exist - normally no more than five per series. And I also backup these files in my external HD.

I keep record of what I upload where in a spreadsheet (file name in rows, sites in columns, in the crossing I use yellow for pending, green for accepted, red for rejected, white for not submitted). This is the same spreadsheet I use for tracking sales and the above mentioned edition notes.

Regards,
Adelaide

lisafx · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2009, 18:39 »

Interesting to read others workflow. Mine is similar to Graphicallyminded.

In the studio and on planned indoor shoots I use strobes with softboxes - just got an octabox and I can't wait to use it! Outdoors I use natural light, modified with a reflector, scrim, or gobo depending. In a pinch I will use my 580ex with omnibounce for fill outdoors.

I shoot as many concepts as I can squeeze into one session. I shoot RAW + L jpg and dowload them to two separate files with the date and brief description - RAW in one folder, Jpg in the other, and back them each up on a separate hard drive before formatting the card.

I resize the jpgs as soon as possible and burn a cd for the models. I import the raw files into Lightroom for sorting, and flag all the ones I want to tweak and upload.

I like to tweak them in small batches of between 10-20 and upload the same day. It will often take me weeks or months to get through a series because I am working on several concurrently. Keeps me from getting bored.

e-person · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2009, 18:57 »

I always use a tripod.

Aperture priority outdoors, manual mode indoors or when I do macro, or when I use strobes.

I meter strobes only when it is a new configuration I did not test before. By now I know my 14 strobes by heart.

If I use film, then I meter even outdoors. Highlights for slides, grey card for colour negative, shadows for BW.

Shoot RAW, backup as soon as I get access to a computer.

Import in ACR, do CA and exposure adjustments, then dust/scratch spotting in photoshop, plus levels and eventually curves, unless it's a cut out, in that case it is the graphic tablet.

Downsize, convert to 8bit RGB and save as jpeg level 12. Then do the iptc/exif before uploading.

Did I forget anything?

avava · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2009, 19:44 »

Hey RT what is this Red Head you just got.

AVAVA

avava · « **Reply #7 on:** January 07, 2009, 19:46 »

Never mind I looked it up like I should have. Let me know if you like it and how you do with the power and color temp.

AVAVA

basti · « **Reply #8 on:** January 08, 2009, 03:26 »

Rarely using tripod (night shots, fireworks, streams), started using RAW not so long ago though I shoot RAW+Jpeg. I do process only single RAWs in case I need more tweaking then just minor tweaks on jpg (little contrast + sharpness).

Shooting usually in P (auto exposure) mode, central point AF, integral exposure, iso 100 or 200. Rarely going up to iso800 (street shots in bad light). Using EV compensation to balance exposure, M-S-A modes using only when shooting from tripod or when I need certain DOF or speed.

Saving usually into folders by years with location/session name + month number. Backup on external HDD, I always keep copy of untouched stuff from camera (though I delete obviously bad shots).
Keep folder for each agency with two subfolders - accepted and rejected.

goldenangel · « **Reply #9 on:** January 08, 2009, 04:05 »

I tend to use aperture mode for outdoor shots unless it's an action shot where I use fast shutter speeds, or low light where I usually use auto mode when time is of essence and ISO is set to auto (normally 100 otherwise). I use tripod usually for shooting objects at home, or night pictures outside. (I think I need to start using tripod more often.)

I shoot RAW images, which I save in one folder per shooting names by theme and date. I do some processing in CNX2, usually lighting adjustments, and then save an 8-bit TIF file to finish the processing in Ps. I also fill keywords within Ps, and later save a level 12 jpg in a folder "To submit". These get eventually moved to "Submitted". I don't keep track of rejected or approved per stock site, although at times I save a separate copy for a particular site (usually IS). I backup all images (RAW, TIF, Ps, and JPG) to another PC over home network, from time to time.

I use SmartFtp to upload to all sites at once.

Dreamframer · « **Reply #10 on:** January 08, 2009, 04:23 »

very simillar to Goldenangel

Imagecom · « **Reply #11 on:** January 08, 2009, 04:32 »

Hi,
98% Aperture Priority mode RAW and JPG, most of the time use tripod. Use to be big fun of strobe -but not lately (no reason).
99% on 100 ISO with cable release. Upload to my P.C. (at this moment over 1200 images waiting to be edited -ohh boy).
Quick selection to get red of the bad ones (non left). Photoshop and dump it to the right folder.
Save one in TIF and one in low resolution JPG (for show). Allways save the RAW with the correct caption.
Use external 1 TB hard drive (about to get an other for secondary back up).
Well that is how i do it.
Cheers
Tom

Phil · « **Reply #12 on:** January 08, 2009, 04:44 »

I procrastinate about shooting stuff that is actually stock and endup just shooting the general stuff around me

I shoot av priority or tav (pentax set av & tv and it adjusts iso - now everyone will come back and tell me every camera has that setting

I use idimager (v3, i like its keywording better than v4) to import images from card. it creates folder of date and renames all filenames to 2009-01-05_impg6575 etc so I dont have to worry anymore about duplicates and it verifies before deleting. then I do a quick a run through in lightroom, deleting, some adjustments etc. jpgs are created for really not stock but stuff I want to keep, 16bit tiffs for possible stock.

jpgs and tiffs go to a folder "2_do" under date folder. raw stay in folder but folder moved to a 'raw' subfolder of 5_archive

in idimager I then do mass batch keywording of keywords that suit entire set or large groups.
I then take the images individully through photoshop. but choose images from all over the place under my 2_do depending on my mood at the time so my batches are very mixed (my todo currently goes back to march08, contains about 5-6000 images and is 3-400gb).

if it is image is somethign I want for personal collection I create a jpg which is left in that folder and the tiff is moved to 3_label. when the folder contains no more tiffs (if it is 12 months old or I have enough of looking at that folder (usually by then) I convert the remainders to jpg

and it is moved to 'my pictures'.

then I procrastinate about finishing the keywording in '3_label'.
after keywording I covert to jpg in bridge, jpg copy each to 4_submit -> micro and 4_submit -> istock
original tiffs are placed in tif folder under 5_archive

copy to flashdisk, take to work

and upload on superfast bandwidth.
folder of micro images remained to date and placed in submissions in 5_archive.

kinda weird now that I write it down, seems complicated but isnt too bad. I see that a good image I end up with 4 copies (although my pics) has higher compression, no wonder I am using a lot of disk space

and then everything is backup up on the 2nd hard drive in my machine and to our server (omg I am up to 12 copies!!!)

Phil

Fran · « **Reply #13 on:** January 08, 2009, 06:48 »

I'm still a newbie so any feedback about what I'm doing is very welcomed.

I only shoot RAW on a new A900. Av when I shoot outdoor, tripod when I shoot landscape and cityscapes, fill in with a HVL-58 and natural light when I shoot outdoor portraits. I need to get an omnibounce. If someone is helping me, I sometimes use a second flashgun outdoor. I very often use intelligent preview to set the ambient light as I want it, again to fill with flash and then I start snapping away. I always try to expose to the right and set the exposure I want in PP.

I'm starting to learn indoor people shooting and I have a second flashgun with an umbrella to get the feel with it before moving to something more professional: in this scenario I shoot all manual, flashguns set on TTL with ratios, hand-held, intelligent preview to understand the lighting, shadows and so on. I need to start learning manual flashes when I get a HVL-42.

I import my images with LR as soon as I get back home to two separate folders, one is converted to DNG. I never save jpgs, only DNGs. I divide my images in RM and RF, I pick the keepers, do all the PP I can in LR, then choose some of them for further local retouching in CS3.

I export all RFs to upload to micro from LR using a preset for each agency, then upload using smartftp.
I export RMs to Alamy and upload.

graficallyminded · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2009, 07:39 »

Sometimes I think it's more fun to make the images than it is to keyword and upload

It sounds like some of you guys are the same way. I end up building up so many images ready to go, and all I want to do is edit or design more.

I've always switched to central point AF lately, I like it much better. I'd rather focus on my subject and then recompose for copyspace than try to get the camera figure out what I'm trying to focus on. With multiple points, my 20D often times get it wrong.

RT · « **Reply #15 on:** January 08, 2009, 07:50 »

Quote from: avava on January 07, 2009, 19:44

Hey RT what is this Red Head you just got.

AVAVA

Sorry terminology, they're also called Hot lights, Fresnals and Stage lights, beware of cheap Chinese imitations, this one is by Strand and costs a lot, I actually bought it because I wanted a spot light although to be honest even though this does do a spot it's not what I wanted so I'll stick with a snoot. And because I'm never one to miss an opportunity here it is!

Actually I'm not that sad, I'm building a new studio and wanted to test the lighting on my infinity wall and Claude is still wrapped up, so as this was to hand I shot it then I thought might as well submit it!

brm1949 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2009, 08:01 »

I shoot in raw, download to a raw folder. Process raw files to jpeg out of bridge with minimal adjustments to a holding folder. Make all other adjustments in Photoshop CS2. Add keywords and description and save to a submit file. Upload to sites from there then move files to Mircostock folder which is divided into seperate folders according to subject. Works good for me. Use tripod and lowest ISO.

avava · « **Reply #17 on:** January 08, 2009, 11:04 »

Hey RT,

You ca make a good make shift snoot that shapes to your needs out of Cinafoil. It is a dense black opaque foil used to wrap around lights to control spill. It is also flame safe. A box looks like a roll of foil only black you can get it pretty cheap at camera stores and reuse the pieces after you remove them from the day a box lasts forever.

Best,
AVAVA

Pixart · « **Reply #18 on:** January 08, 2009, 11:38 »

Hey RT, do you use your hotlight with your strobes or is the colour difference too huge? I have some of those cheap Chinese ones you mentioned and they are yellow yellow yellow and haven't been used in likely 2 years.

I read in some *old* course material that most product photographers use hotlights. Do they still use them now that they have gone digital?

RT · « **Reply #19 on:** January 08, 2009, 12:45 »

Quote from: avava on January 08, 2009, 11:04

Hey RT,

You ca make a good make shift snoot that shapes to your needs out of Cinafoil. It is a dense black opaque foil used to wrap around lights to control spill. It is also flame safe. A box looks like a roll of foil only black you can get it pretty cheap at camera stores and reuse the pieces after you remove them from the day a box lasts forever.

Best,
AVAVA

Hi Jonathan,

I've got a snoot for my Elinchrom's but I actually wanted a genuine spot light like the sort you'd get in a theatre, but they cost thousands.
Incidently for anybody in Europe I buy a lot of stuff from FotoWalser in Germany, their softboxes, octoboxes and snoots are as good as if not better than the major manufacturers but at about half the price.

Re your Cinafoil - I've got some of this that I use for Gobos, over here it's made by Lee Filters and is just called Matt black foil, very good stuff and like you say comes on a huge roll and lasts forever.

This and my reference to a red head above reminds me that we should have a American-English terminology dictionary, what would you think if I referred to a 'bottletop'?

RT · « **Reply #20 on:** January 08, 2009, 12:52 »

Quote from: Pixart on January 08, 2009, 11:38

Hey RT, do you use your hotlight with your strobes or is the colour difference too huge? I have some of those cheap Chinese ones you mentioned and they are yellow yellow yellow and haven't been used in likely 2 years.

I read in some *old* course material that most product photographers use hotlights. Do they still use them now that they have gone digital?

That's why I made reference to cheap Chinese copies, mine uses 800w bulbs that are specially designed for the film industry, the cheap Chinese one's as I understand just use the sort of bulbs you could get in a home hardware shop which is why yours are yellow I presume.

As for product shots, personally I use whatever I can, but generally speaking I'll use a flash (strobe) under my still life table on a low setting, that's not to get the background white just to eliminate shadows if you have it too high you'll get light spill on the subject, then light the product with either cool light, hot lights or flash and over expose by about 1 stop to burn out the background.
The stuff you read in your old course material still applies and to be honest nearly everything to do with lighting will, digital has just changed the workflow (made it easier) not the way you photograph, the only advantage is not having to use compensating filters as you can just stick a grey card in and do it in PS.

I'd like one of the new Sekonic light meters that measures colour temperature but even though I asked Santa didn't bring it.

e-person · « **Reply #21 on:** January 08, 2009, 13:29 »

I do own a real theatre light. 1000W and about 10kg. Never used it. Not even once.

Now that you mention it, maybe I should take it out of the garage...

RT · « **Reply #22 on:** January 08, 2009, 13:46 »

Quote from: e-person on January 08, 2009, 13:29

Now that you mention it, maybe I should take it out of the garage...

and send it to me

avava · « **Reply #23 on:** January 08, 2009, 14:35 »

I agree RT,

Digital Photography is like a new emulsion of film. Nothing else changed except the Polaroids are a lot faster,

that and the cost of not buying and processing film. Good light is still good light. You can PS things to help your mistakes but if you can shoot straight files you will save tons of time on your post end. And your files look better to. Those Chinese lanterns work great with daylight balanced fluorescent you just need about 6 of them, beautiful light.

AVAVA

Pixart · « **Reply #24 on:** January 08, 2009, 15:09 »

Don't know what I was thinking, of course you are right. Throwing in a (tungsten?) bulb would be like adding a gel to an area I guess, wouldn't it?

Quote from: avava on January 08, 2009, 14:35

Digital Photography is like a new emulsion of film. Nothing else changed except the Polaroids are a lot faster, that and the cost of not buying and processing film. Good light is still good light. You can PS things to help your mistakes but if you can shoot straight files you will save tons of time on your post end. And your files look better to.

Yes, good light is good ligbt but the dynamic range I'm getting with digital is pretty bad (if DR is the correct terminoligy). Just one example: I run into a lot of trouble with fair people who dress in dark clothes. If I get the details in their clothing their faces or hair is lost. Wish there was a 4 stop range, but it seems like there's barely 2 in digital. I'm hoping to get a full-frame body this fall. Maybe some wonder sensor will be here by then. I'm using a D-200 which is now 2 years old and is likely considered ancient by now - has the range improved at all on the new Nikons?

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Author Topic: What is your work flow for shooting and processing? (Read 12791 times)

avava

graficallyminded

RT

madelaide

lisafx

e-person

avava

avava

basti

goldenangel

Dreamframer

Imagecom

Phil

Fran

graficallyminded

RT

brm1949

avava

Pixart

RT

RT

e-person

RT

avava

Pixart

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