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Microstock Footage Forum => General - Stock Video => Topic started by: mtkang on November 25, 2013, 11:22
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Hi all,
how you guys remove the dust spot on video? let's say a spot on blue sky in a video on tripod, does it have a quick way to clean it?
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Depends what software you have - if you've an Extended version of Photoshop CS5 or above, one technique is described here:
http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/ (http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/)
or, if you have After Effects, you could try this
http://magictimelapse.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/remove-dust-spots-with-adobe-after.html (http://magictimelapse.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/remove-dust-spots-with-adobe-after.html)
works quite well so long as the background is fairly uniform, or out of focus, but sometimes still shows through.
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Hi all,
how you guys remove the dust spot on video? let's say a spot on blue sky in a video on tripod, does it have a quick way to clean it?
I also shot a video this weekend that to this point is not usable due to the "Goodyear" logo on a tire. Not easy to reshoot. Anyone know of a service who can remove logos from video and retain a realistic look? Feel free to pm me.
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Hi all,
how you guys remove the dust spot on video? let's say a spot on blue sky in a video on tripod, does it have a quick way to clean it?
I also shot a video this weekend that to this point is not usable due to the "Goodyear" logo on a tire. Not easy to reshoot. Anyone know of a service who can remove logos from video and retain a realistic look? Feel free to pm me.
What version of photoshop do you have. It works pretty good actually and you can just use the clone tool like you always have.
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Hi all,
how you guys remove the dust spot on video? let's say a spot on blue sky in a video on tripod, does it have a quick way to clean it?
I also shot a video this weekend that to this point is not usable due to the "Goodyear" logo on a tire. Not easy to reshoot. Anyone know of a service who can remove logos from video and retain a realistic look? Feel free to pm me.
What version of photoshop do you have. It works pretty good actually and you can just use the clone tool like you always have.
I have cs6
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can software like adobe premiere edit it away?
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can software like adobe premiere edit it away?
Yes.
I use Premiere Elements. I create a transparent still image with patches on the areas I want to clone, put it on video track 2 while the original video is on the video track 1 and merge them.
It is not as easy as clone tool but I don't know any other way to fix it.
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i can open the mov in photoshop..but what is the way to make the mov file into layers? and how i can put it back?
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i import the video as layers but i have problem to use batch edit actions on all layers..
it seems related to the visibility of layers, since all layers are invisible but the first one.. i tried to enable the visibility of every layers but the actions run with errors..
currently i run actions layers by layers..anyone know how to run through all layers?
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hi all,
i use the import 'video frames to layers..' of the mov.. but it seems the audio won't get imported? i tried to edit every layers but i have problems to render the video..
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hi all,
I really can't find the way to render the layers correctly. My edited layers are all turn on visible.. and when i render out as mov, it is a still images..even the mov is playing, it seems the top layers are always render.
how can i teach photoshop to render it as animation?
thank you.
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hi all,
I really can't find the way to render the layers correctly. My edited layers are all turn on visible.. and when i render out as mov, it is a still images..even the mov is playing, it seems the top layers are always render.
how can i teach photoshop to render it as animation?
thank you.
Di you ever find a solution to this? I still cannot export back to video. I just get a still image as my render. Nothing plays.
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i was able to find the solutions after playing arounds..i think one needs to convert it as 'frames'? i played around and wasn't really remember how it is done now..
it seems like u should switch to animations or convert it as frames..
if i work on photoshop again i will see how i did that..
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Depends what software you have - if you've an Extended version of Photoshop CS5 or above, one technique is described here:
[url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url] ([url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url])
Thanks a lot for this!
I have just tried now and it works perfectly!
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@ mtkang and Mantis
I don't understand what is your problems with export.
What I do:
1)
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/638/yhp5.png) (http://img600.imageshack.us/i/yhp5.png/)
2)
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/1108/j8yj.png) (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/j8yj.png/)
And it works without any problem.
(I am with PS CC)
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Depends what software you have - if you've an Extended version of Photoshop CS5 or above, one technique is described here:
[url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url] ([url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url])
Thanks a lot for this!
I have just tried now and it works perfectly!
____
@ mtkang and Mantis
I don't understand what is your problems with export.
What I do:
1)
([url]http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/638/yhp5.png[/url]) ([url]http://img600.imageshack.us/i/yhp5.png/[/url])
2)
([url]http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/1108/j8yj.png[/url]) ([url]http://img835.imageshack.us/i/j8yj.png/[/url])
And it works without any problem.
(I am with PS CC)
How long is your video? Mine is 17 seconds and its been rendering for 9 hours so far with about 4 more to go.
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22 seconds of video + 1 layer for sharpening + 1 layer for spot removing + 1 layer for Vibrance/Saturation + 2 gradient layers.
Time for rendering: 7'08"
I did it on an "old" Mac Mini.
I have noticed one thing, and maybe this is the reason of your problem:
If you work with Smart Layers, to apply non destructive effects, you should not rasterize them then because it will create a still image duplicated during all the time of the video.
If you want to apply (flatten) the effect to the Smart Layer (for example to apply another effect) just recreate a Smart Layer from your Smart Layer with the effect.
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22 seconds of video + 1 layer for sharpening + 1 layer for spot removing + 1 layer for Vibrance/Saturation + 2 gradient layers.
Time for rendering: 7'08"
I did it on an "old" Mac Mini.
I have noticed one thing, and maybe this is the reason of your problem:
If you work with Smart Layers, to apply non destructive effects, you should not rasterize them then because it will create a still image duplicated during all the time of the video.
If you want to apply (flatten) the effect to the Smart Layer (for example to apply another effect) just recreate a Smart Layer from your Smart Layer with the effect.
I'm probably doing it wrong. I am "importing video layers", and this gives me 500 layers. I apply the changes to the layers, then I export, render video. That process doesn't work for me. It only uses one frame to render the video. I'm going to have to read up on it.
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I recommend using Adobe After Effects clone stamp tool. If the video is shoot on a tripod is vary easy to fix.
I've never used Photoshop before for video editing and from what I see in your posts I would not recommend it.
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22 seconds of video + 1 layer for sharpening + 1 layer for spot removing + 1 layer for Vibrance/Saturation + 2 gradient layers.
Time for rendering: 7'08"
I did it on an "old" Mac Mini.
I have noticed one thing, and maybe this is the reason of your problem:
If you work with Smart Layers, to apply non destructive effects, you should not rasterize them then because it will create a still image duplicated during all the time of the video.
If you want to apply (flatten) the effect to the Smart Layer (for example to apply another effect) just recreate a Smart Layer from your Smart Layer with the effect.
I'm probably doing it wrong. I am "importing video layers", and this gives me 500 layers. I apply the changes to the layers, then I export, render video. That process doesn't work for me. It only uses one frame to render the video. I'm going to have to read up on it.
I just open my videos like I open any other file in Photoshop: File > Open (I don't "import" nothing)
It opens the file in a group layer (Video Group)
I ungroup the layer (don't ask me why… but I am not happy with this group :) )
Then I apply all the corrections layers that I need, as for any other still image.
At last, when I have done, I export the video as shown in one of my previous post.
I recommend using Adobe After Effects clone stamp tool. If the video is shoot on a tripod is vary easy to fix.
I've never used Photoshop before for video editing and from what I see in your posts I would not recommend it.
With Photoshop, when you know what to do, it is very simple and efficient.
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22 seconds of video + 1 layer for sharpening + 1 layer for spot removing + 1 layer for Vibrance/Saturation + 2 gradient layers.
Time for rendering: 7'08"
I did it on an "old" Mac Mini.
I have noticed one thing, and maybe this is the reason of your problem:
If you work with Smart Layers, to apply non destructive effects, you should not rasterize them then because it will create a still image duplicated during all the time of the video.
If you want to apply (flatten) the effect to the Smart Layer (for example to apply another effect) just recreate a Smart Layer from your Smart Layer with the effect.
I'm probably doing it wrong. I am "importing video layers", and this gives me 500 layers. I apply the changes to the layers, then I export, render video. That process doesn't work for me. It only uses one frame to render the video. I'm going to have to read up on it.
I just open my videos like I open any other file in Photoshop: File > Open (I don't "import" nothing)
It opens the file in a group layer (Video Group)
I ungroup the layer (don't ask me why… but I am not happy with this group :) )
Then I apply all the corrections layers that I need, as for any other still image.
At last, when I have done, I export the video as shown in one of my previous post.
I recommend using Adobe After Effects clone stamp tool. If the video is shoot on a tripod is vary easy to fix.
I've never used Photoshop before for video editing and from what I see in your posts I would not recommend it.
With Photoshop, when you know what to do, it is very simple and efficient.
Thanks, Beppe I will give it a shot. Here is my frustration. I imported the layers (as I described) and created a clone layer on top of each of the 500 layers. I merged each layer individually with the clone layer, leaving me with the original 500 layers (but now they are corrected). So, in with 500 layers, out with 500 layers. For example, I did shoot on a tripod out an airplane window and focused on the wing, with the desert in the background. But the window wasn't clean and had a couple of blobs on it. So the entire 20 second video has the blob. In your method, would you have to edit each layer as I did?
Another question. If I open the video like you did and open up the video group, could I replace those layers with the ones I've already edited, then convert back to a video group?
By the way this is what I LOVE about these forums....sharing ideas, helping others, learning. Really a nice departure from many of the other discussions..
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You don't have to "import video layers" - in fact, I'm not sure what you mean there - just drag and drop the .mov file onto Photoshop and it will open it as a single layer.
Then follow the guide as in the video I linked to earlier
(http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/ (http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/))
Note though it only works in PS CS 4 and above Extended versions (as far as I know).
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You don't have to "import video layers" - in fact, I'm not sure what you mean there - just drag and drop the .mov file onto Photoshop and it will open it as a single layer.
Then follow the guide as in the video I linked to earlier
([url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url] ([url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url]))
Note though it only works in PS CS 4 and above Extended versions (as far as I know).
Unfortunately I have to physically use the clone tool in my video as something like dust and scratches wont do what I need. I need to be able to physically edit without a filter layer.
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In your method, would you have to edit each layer as I did?
If you open the movie as I told you before you will have only one layer with the full movie
Then you can have one or more duplicate of the movie if you want to apply some filter
And you can have normal correction layers, as those that you use for photo correction
To make it short… Just open your movie like you open any photo and consider it as photo, the logic and the workflow is absolutely similar.
Another question. If I open the video like you did and open up the video group, could I replace those layers with the ones I've already edited, then convert back to a video group?
This is difficult to answer because I don't know exactly how you have edited your layers.
But if you have used some adjustment layers I think that you will have just to put these adjustment layers over your movie layer to get the same result (as you do with photos).
For the spot correction you will have to redo the job as indicated at the link
http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/ (http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/)
In fact is is faster to do than to explain.
Just try and you will see that you will do it in less than 5 minutes
Unfortunately I have to physically use the clone tool in my video as something like dust and scratches wont do what I need. I need to be able to physically edit without a filter layer.
This is another story.
I am afraid that there is not a valid/simple solution to your problem.
One solution could be to split your video in different parts and then work on the different parts separately [?]
Once the work is done you can recompose your full video from the different parts - I think that exporting it will do the job.
It is really difficult to answer you without have seen the original video and have an idea of the result you want to get.
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In your method, would you have to edit each layer as I did?
If you open the movie as I told you before you will have only one layer with the full movie
Then you can have one or more duplicate of the movie if you want to apply some filter
And you can have normal correction layers, as those that you use for photo correction
To make it short… Just open your movie like you open any photo and consider it as photo, the logic and the workflow is absolutely similar.
Another question. If I open the video like you did and open up the video group, could I replace those layers with the ones I've already edited, then convert back to a video group?
This is difficult to answer because I don't know exactly how you have edited your layers.
But if you have used some adjustment layers I think that you will have just to put these adjustment layers over your movie layer to get the same result (as you do with photos).
For the spot correction you will have to redo the job as indicated at the link
[url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url] ([url]http://tv.adobe.com/watch/russell-brown-at-photoshop-world-2011-orlando/smart-object-video-in-photoshop/[/url])
In fact is is faster to do than to explain.
Just try and you will see that you will do it in less than 5 minutes
Yea that method does not work for me. I have blobs on sharp edges so I need to be able to clone accurately to straight lines and sharp edges.
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Yea that method does not work for me. I have blobs on sharp edges so I need to be able to clone accurately to straight lines and sharp edges.
Okay, I have understood :)
1) open your movie as I told you before
2) Create an empty new layer over the movie layer, with the movie stopped to the beginning
3) Clone what you need to clone in this new layer.
4) In the timeline you will see the new layer long some frames. You can extend it as you want by dragging the right edge
5) When done export your movie
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Hmm... here is another quick way to clean a dust spot on a video: put a watermark over the video (but not near or over the dust spot) and send the video to me. I'll edit it and show you how I did it. (maybe make a short video tutorial about it if I have time) (Note: I'll probably use After Effects)
And if Beppe Grillo wants and has time.. to edit the video in Photoshop you can send it to him too and we can compare the result: After Effects vs Photoshop.
Mantis I can try and remove the "Goodyear" logo but I can't promise anything until I see the video.
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Thanks to the OP for starting this thread - I didn't know you could edit video in PS.
I was able to remove a sensor spot with the clone stamp tool and that worked fine as long as the background doesn't change or move. When it does, I tried to do it exactly as in the video using Dust and Scratches on a smart layer and masking it in as described but it didn't work in CS4 Extended, or at least not for me. Drat - I think it must only work in CS5 and above.