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Author Topic: Traditional White Backgrounds  (Read 5402 times)

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tab62

« on: February 10, 2011, 10:43 »
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Hi MS Group,

I have questions pertaining to the use of White backgrounds for my stock shots-

1. What is the best White background to use? I've tried Vinyl but it has some texture that the stock companies have pounded me stating they see the texture. I am going to order some paper rolls but not sure if this will work.

2. I can never get the entire background to look bright White thus I've attempted to use the Dodge tool to make it brighter - it looks great to my eyes even at 100% but the stock companies reject it fast! Should I just use the Levels adjustments only and not attempt to whiten the background via the dodge tool? I also tried the Adjustment Tool in Camera Raw and got slammed by the stock companies. Is it okay to have some gray in background of the photo?

So far my acceptance ratio is around 40 to 50% with very few sales - I've been only doing this for 3 months thus I have a lot to learn.


Thanks.


Tom


« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2011, 10:50 »
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Paper works well and it's cheap.  Watch that it doesn't buckle during the shoot or you will have to deal with the shadows in PS.  The ultimate shooting-on-white guide is here http://zackarias.com/for-photographers/photo-resources/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/ .

« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2011, 10:57 »
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It shouldn't matter what texture the background is provided you are blasting it with enough light to effectively wipe it out. I assume you are trying to do isolations on white? During the shoot you should be able to review the shots and see 'blinkies' in those areas where you have overloaded the senor with light which is what you are trying to achieve. A 'white background' should be absolutely pure white.

« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2011, 12:06 »
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I use white poster board. You can adjust your levels in PS. If you are shooting in raw you will not get the noise and data loss if you correct it before converting to JPEG. You can also use layers to blow your background white and keep proper lighting for your subject. It's quite a bit of work though for each image. Just some things I used before I got my lighting down.

tab62

« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2011, 12:31 »
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So far I've had the best luck with Poster board as long as I don't large objects that require me shooting a vertical background such a wine bottle standing straight up. Vertical backgrounds are what is killing me! I am hoping the paper rolls will give me the seamless effect that I am looking for- now if only I can get the lighting correct- Here is how I am setting up my lights on the small table

a. I have 2 soft box lights (5 bulbs in each one) one each side of the table and one spot light that bouncing off the ceiling. For whatever reason I cannot get the vertical part of my white background to lite up enough this is always a Whitish Gray color.

Thanks for the awesome comments on my White background issues...


Tom

« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2011, 12:55 »
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It sounds like you are not lighting the background separately with additional lights. The background needs to be over-exposed so obviously you can't light it with the same lights as for your subject.

« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2011, 14:41 »
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heres a great article about isolation http://www.zarias.com/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/

Part 2 talks about exposure methods  ie overexposing backdrop 2 + stops


Duhh sorry didnt see this posted above lol
« Last Edit: February 10, 2011, 17:30 by Artmyth »

« Reply #7 on: February 10, 2011, 16:07 »
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Yeah, the texture should not even be an issue.  I used vinyl for a while with no problems.  Don't get all fancy with the dodge.  Just use the marquee to outline the general outline of the person, fill it with white, and then figure out how to get the extra pixels between the now all white area and your subject white.

« Reply #8 on: February 10, 2011, 16:15 »
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I love these thingy: http://www.lastolite.com/hilite-backgrounds.php
Put a couple of lights in them, voila! You can have a subject directly next to it, no shadow. Portable, too. There is also an optional "train".
For smaller subjects they sell these: http://www.lastolite.com/litetable.php
I didn't try those but it looks like a handy thing.

tab62

« Reply #9 on: February 10, 2011, 16:37 »
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Super posts! It is the back lighting for sure! Now I have to figure out how to light up my background- I have a spot light and 2 soft box lights thus the configuration is there- I hope...

Carl

  • Carl Stewart, CS Productions
« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2011, 08:27 »
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I've had success with shooting against any background that will give me good separation, then isolating in Photoshop and placing the subject in a separate white layer...


« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2011, 09:31 »
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when we shot isolated item, does it has to be pure white? like 0,0,255?

 

« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2011, 09:56 »
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when we shot isolated item, does it has to be pure white? like 0,0,255?

0,0,255 is pure BLUE :)

« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2011, 12:38 »
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ah sorry, i mean 255,255,255..

By the way, i used pen tool to isolated object all the time..in order to achieve pure white background. I wonder is it possible to achieve perfect pure white background with good lighting?


when we shot isolated item, does it has to be pure white? like 0,0,255?

0,0,255 is pure BLUE :)

« Reply #14 on: February 11, 2011, 12:59 »
0

By the way, i used pen tool to isolated object all the time..in order to achieve pure white background. I wonder is it possible to achieve perfect pure white background with good lighting?


Absolutely. This is how is should be done. The general rule is your background should be 2 stops brighter than the subject. That's it. No editing required.

« Reply #15 on: February 11, 2011, 15:25 »
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Isn't there always a certain amount of editing on full length shots for example?  How do you get a pure white floor without blowing out the feet?

« Reply #16 on: February 11, 2011, 15:27 »
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You don't.  There's always some editing.


 

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