I just bought some stereo anaglyph glasses at the dollar store and now I have a perfect reason to use them!   

I just bought some stereo anaglyph glasses at the dollar store and now I have a perfect reason to use them!   

I was using the free cardboard ones, there's an educational site that will send ONE pair, if you include a SASE.

Went to eBay and ordered a set from China, $1.19 delivered.

I know of only one agency trying to sell 3D pictures. I don't think it's working out to well for them... 3D has always been, and seems like it forever will be, an idea that just never goes mainstream.

Believe me, I've said the same before. The 3D TV is a dying fad, and the movie's are being converted, but that's losing the attraction. Small market, novelty. Just keeping busy. I have 15 stereograph cards now. I'm hoping to top off at 20 some day. LOL My favorites are "interesting" and historic shots. So the French Maid, religious cards, the Lithos color or B&W I've found, I don't care for.

Same as usual, transportation and history.

Just another Winter project to keep the mind busy and fingers moving.

 

I don't know if you have Dollar Tree stores where you live, but that's where I bought mine. If you'd like, I can pick up as many pairs as you need and ship them to you. I should be able to get quite a few pairs into the $5 "If it fits, it ships" box at the post office. Just let me know!

I don't know if you have Dollar Tree stores where you live, but that's where I bought mine. If you'd like, I can pick up as many pairs as you need and ship them to you. I should be able to get quite a few pairs into the $5 "If it fits, it ships" box at the post office. Just let me know!

I'll go check, there's a Dollar Tree across from my favorite Aldi store. (bag salad 99c who can pass that up?)

hi all, kind of confused..can this kind of images created by photoshop? is the image threadstarter posted are created in photoshop?

Made from original vintage Stereoscope cards.



I have 20 now. Just fooling around. What's new? I like projects and experiments.

First I scan the card, on a flatbed, with a few books and a piece of one inch iron, railroad track splice. Cards are naturally curved. Some at 600dpi some 1200 dpi, but I'm sure for what I'm doing 600 is just fine. It's not rocket science. I was just testing different resolutions.

Then I open the file and make two exact, identical dimension images, one left, one right.

Open the software: (FREE of course it's me) Axara Free 3D Image Creator http://www.axaramedia.com/FREESolutions/3DImageCreator/

If the images are not identical pixel by pixel width and height, it will either refuse with an error message or crash.

The software makes the 3D anagylph. It's that easy. There are some depth adjustments, if you were making your own from two photos. But for copied Stereograph cards, I don't change that. I leave it at zero.

You can make your own without getting into two cameras and all kinds of complicated equipment and science. Take a shot, standing on your left foot. Move your weight to your right foot, take another identical shot. 3-4 inches is all you need. Make the 3D photo with the free software and crop afterwards. You can easily remove what didn't match up. You have two identical images in size. Everything is pretty simple.

Since it's pretty much monochrome, might as well start grey-scale.

Above all Have Fun!

ps you can make them from a single photo, but it really doesn't work that well. Two will give you better depth illusion.

i thought the first sphinx images is from so old images..

anyway, it is quite interesting..

maybe one can sell it as prints on FAA..

Yes, 1899 is old. Now you know the size of the original, about 3 x 3 1/2" per image. They were made into the 50s so not all are expired copyright, but the ones I collect are turn of the Century (that other century...)

I try to find interesting and historic subjects. Believe me, there are some good ones and there are thousands of light viewing, entertainment and religious. The process was used for education and that was much of the origins. So somewhere there are medical images too, but I haven't seen any at antique shops. The travel and scenic is often from sets of world images, meant to give people a view of far away places.

AM Radio stations didn't become easily available until about 1910 (there were some before that, not many) Libraries were not as common as they are now. Talking motion pictures... 1928. Remember in 1900 no TVs. 

Thus Stereoscope cards were a big thing! They aren't "rare" like some eBay sales will claim. (asking $9.99 plus shipping starting price. Really?) They are fairly common. And considering the demand from the market, inexpensive. Most shops will sell you photo cards for $2.50 each. I only look for real photo. The litho cards are newer, might be in color and can be identical to the older photo cards. They are often mixed in at the same price, but in my opinion have much less value.

In quantity, photo cards can be less, but then you get some junk cards with weak subjects, mixed with the interesting and historic ones. I prefer buying selected cards and let the rest sit at the shops. There are some huge World History sets, that have been tempting, but fortunately I spend money on lenses and cameras instead. 

The problem with the viewers is the price is held up by perceived value, more than actual demand. $35 is a very fair price for one that might need some work, $65 is a normal price at an antique shop for a good used one, in excellent condition.

Did anyone mention... No demand = No Market! for selling this on micro. It's just for fun.

Good idea about antique photos on FAA, if they were 8 x 10s and I owned the originals, that might work.

I think IS will accept 3D anaglyphs if they came from an iPhone.

Cool! Purple finging serves a purpose!

What distance are you setting in your software/process for optimum viewing?

Not sure what you are asking? I just take the original card, scan it at 2400 dpi. (piece of railroad rail on the scanner, because the cards are curved) Crop into two identical pixel x pixel images. Convert to greyscale. Edit flaws that aren't in both images... dust dirt, scratches, anything obvious. Overlay them together. ( Image registration is from original if that's what you were asking about viewing distance?) Then take the full size and make a 640 longest side Websize for the gallery.

If anyone knows a way to batch this process, please add it. I want to take two Go-Pros mounted together, and do a time lapse, then merge each image to create the 3D and animate it for a motion video. Side by side video would be even more brave, but again, the merging of the two images, and having them synchronized, is the hard part.

Not sure if I'm missing something, in that whole thing. I think there's a way to create a Photoshop script, which would make the left and right images the right colors.

After looking at some different processes and glasses, like the newer ones with green, which apparently can be viewed without glasses and give some nice depth with the correct glasses. I decided to stick with the old B&W images and red/blue anaglyph standards.

I'm not setting a distance? In the case of the house in the snow, I used a Go Pro head strap mounted, took one image, shifted my weight to the other foot and let it take a second image. Ideally someone who's actually trying would take two images 2 3/4 to 3" apart to simulate human eyes distance and proper parallax.

Ah, sorry I thought you meant for the ones I was re-processing.

I'm sure you'll find people who know more, but the idea is to simulate the parallax of two eyes. How far are a humans eyes apart? About 3 inches. There's your starting point.

The distance to the subject will change the perspective and angles, but don't get over complicated. Just start at 3 inches and focus at some point in front of the subject, or remember the 1/3 - 2/3rds rule of focus. If you are right on the subject, you should have back focus about 2/3rds behind the point of focus and 1/3rd in front. It's not absolute it's a general rule. It works.

Just found this one and it seems like straight forward information. I also see some more processing software.

My goal is to eventually make a time lapse with two cameras (Go Pros probably?) Mounted side by side. They are small enough to mount the right distance. inexpensive produce a large enough image on the older basic model, and have a 1 frame per second setting.

My problem is that I haven't found anything that will batch process Anaglyph images yet. It's easy enough to match them, left and right by time, and synchronize, but combining them into one image I haven't found. Well yes, one by one, which if I do a time lapse, will be weeks of tedious matching and processing. So there's got to be something out there that will do a script or batch. I haven't found it.

One site the guy has done some, I wrote and asked him how and he hasn't answered.

For that matter, how will you be combining your two videos into one Red / Blue (or other methods)?

http://stereo.gsfc.nasa.gov/classroom/3d.shtml

Haven't followed this one or the links yet. Just found it tonight.

From what I understand (but I'm no expert by any means!) there is an optimum distance for viewing 3D images where the convergence is perfect.

I was looking into making a rig for a couple of my cameras to do some 3D filming and that's what I though that I had read.

I hadn't gotten that far into it yet, still researching. I was wondering about an interlaced format perhaps with alternating frames of the different colors.

Neat idea, if you find anything please write!

One of the newer methods does that, the shuttered glasses. But then it starts getting complicated and electric.

Plain old, 50s, dumb Red/Blue (and make all the images monochrome, not color) Works best for the entertainment value. Once you get into color you can enhance it by using colors that match the apparent position. Some colors stand out front more, before they are 3D. Human perception is interesting.

The recent cartoons, animations and especially Avatar made use of well defined contrasting colors to enhance the 3D effect. If you go look at mine that I'm playing with, the best are sharp and have good contrast. The ones that are kind of bland, lack contrast and sharpness.

I still love the group of people at the Colombian Exposition 1895, it's just depth upon depth of faces and hats.

I had cardboard and bought some plastic glasses off eBay. The usual, from China, took three weeks, free shipping. I think they were a buck-something. They do work better than the cardboard, only because they stay on better. The whole process is pretty basic science.

Of all the sites I wrote to asking about batch processing... Not one has answered. Not even, "go away", or that's top secret. I would think that a plugin for Irfanview would be the simplest. Open, greyscale, tint, merge... But then, sitting here dreaming is much easier than the reality of it all.

The free site SASE for anyone else.  http://www.rainbowsymphony.com/

Many on eBay for 99c bid, free shipping. Be ready to wait. Haven't been to Dollar Tree yet to see if all stores have them, or how much.

Race, your 3D photos make me keep my glasses right next to my computer! 

I will definitely let you know how I progress with 3D filming, but it's kind of a back-burner project for now.

You may also want to check into building a DIY beam splitter.