Author Topic: How do I improve lighting on an overcast day? (Read 7482 times)

packerguy · « **on:** June 10, 2009, 09:54 »

I had the image below rejected at Istock and DT because of lighting. Also, a different shot of the plant taken at the same time was rejected at SS because of lighting.

How does one improve the lighting when taking a shot with diffused lighting from an overcast day? Is there something I can to when processing the image that would help? It seems like images taken in this type of lighting is a crap shoot, some times they are accepted and other times they are reject because of lighting.

Thanks – Mark

Squat · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:01 »

There are three COLOR CORRECTION possibilities:

1) use a "warming" filter (available at any pro camera stores)

2) change your white balance to a different kelvin.

3) post process with color correction +r +y and increase contrast a little .

flat lighting is just that, no variation to excite your image; lots of greys or mostly blue side of the color range. so you have to boost the contrast, and add back the rest of the color spectrum that are missing without the sunlight.

BASICALLY, all 3 methods does the color correction and bring the color temperature to what looks like a normal sunshine day. (more or less).

hope that helps.

Perry · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:06 »

4) Shoot raw and use a color checker or grey card.

5) Use a (off camera) flash. The image in the exaple would have been very easy to light with a flash.

6) Come back (or wait) when the light is better. I try avoid shooting in boring light.

7) You may have some success with using "negative reflectors", black cards to make the shadows deeper and/or limiting the light falling on the subject.

No post-processing tweak will help here, the main problem is that the light source (overcast sky) is too big.

massman · « **Reply #3 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:21 »

I was always under the impression that photographing plant life on an overcast day was preferred. No?

madelaide · « **Reply #4 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:33 »

Quote from: massman on June 10, 2009, 10:21

I was always under the impression that photographing plant life on an overcast day was preferred. No?

I thought so too. To me, it's nice, maybe could be a bit brigher and more vivid.

Squat · « **Reply #5 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:44 »

Quote from: madelaide on June 10, 2009, 10:33

Quote from: massman on June 10, 2009, 10:21
I was always under the impression that photographing plant life on an overcast day was preferred. No?

I thought so too. To me, it's nice, maybe could be a bit brigher and more vivid.

Yes, that may be so, in the sense that overcast do not cast ugly dark shadows, which a flash can cause similar problems too. The ideal is the sun peaking through overcast skies, which adds that dynamic lighting to pique the dynamic scale. A reflector can do that too, even a tiny torch light on a golden reflector can make the plant look a little "spunkier". It really helps to add a bit of "warm" lighting .
Of course, if it's landscape, you can do that, so that's why they brought in a cc filter or what many call a "warming" filter.
If you have a camera that has extended dynamics, ie pentax k20d or the highend Canon, you can use that too to boost your dullness. Theoretically, what it does is shoot at 2 ISO setting, one exposing for the highlights and the other for the shadows. That brings out a bit more colour than usual.

Just my own observations. I do shoot during overcast days, but I use one or some of these techniques. A fill-flash is nice too, for closeups, but you still need to have a reflector to ensure the shadows are softened.

MAF · « **Reply #6 on:** June 10, 2009, 12:57 »

I like it.

Karimala · « **Reply #7 on:** June 10, 2009, 13:09 »

A small luminosity adjustment in match color would help brighten it up.

gostwyck · « **Reply #8 on:** June 10, 2009, 14:13 »

You can tweak it in curves/levels/saturation obviously but personally I don't usually bother shooting for stock until conditions are virtually perfect. It's likely to be a waste of time as you will be competing for sales against better images.

SNP · « **Reply #9 on:** June 10, 2009, 21:36 »

shoot on a day that is not overcast or use a copper reflector to warm up the subject

travelstock · « **Reply #10 on:** June 11, 2009, 00:48 »

I agree with other comments - overcast days are good for these types of shots - look at your post processing a little more - a bit more exposure and contrast should do the trick.

packerguy · « **Reply #11 on:** June 11, 2009, 11:34 »

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

redhat · « **Reply #12 on:** June 21, 2009, 23:35 »

The problem with your overcast picture is the color of the plant, green. Green is a horrible color to meter and photograph. Next time look for a red or yellow subject on an overcast day.

Dreamframer · « **Reply #13 on:** June 22, 2009, 05:00 »

It's good to take shots of plants on a cloudy day because light is soft and almost without shadows, but you should at least increase contrast (use curves), and increase warmth a bit.

ptlee · « **Reply #14 on:** June 22, 2009, 18:42 »

Like what some of the others mentioned, I prefer shooting macro under overcast skies, as it doesn't give harsh shadows. Bit the lack of shadows may also make the image a bit bland, with no sense of 'depth'.

So I would use an off-shoe cord to get the flash off centered, plus a flash diffuser to create some shadows, but not too harsh, use the flash as a fill-in, not the main source of light (ie, -'ve compensation). Plus the fill-in flash light could help bring out a more vibrant colour.

A reflector may also do a similar job, but I'm more used to using a fill-in flash approach.

Hope this helps

Cheers,
PTLee

tubed · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2009, 01:11 »

Clouds are natures lightbox.. Outstanding light difusion.. No harsh shadows..

Push your levels around a little and adjust your hue/saturation (slightly, don't over-do it)..

RacePhoto · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2009, 12:16 »

Quote from: massman on June 10, 2009, 10:21

I was always under the impression that photographing plant life on an overcast day was preferred. No?

Yes in many ways, you already have diffused light.

As for the comment about a warming filter, it will do nothing if the camera is set for auto white balance. Nothing!

You can adjust the camera for "cloudy" in the white balance and achieve the same effect as filters used to do. With digital, you don't really need a bag of expensive filters because it's doing in post processing. If you are short money and need a UV filter to protect your lens, you can go buy a used 82A or anything clean and in good condition from the bargain bin and it works fine. Of course you are stuck with a warming filter in the way if you want any other setting.

Should you want the warming filter to be in effect, you just change to manual color temperature and it's there. But we really don't need filters anymore.

Copper or golden reflectors are a nice way to not only correct, but also control the lighting. You could put a filter over the fill flash?

Temperature   Typical Sources

1000K   Candles; oil lamps
2000K   Very early sunrise; low effect tungsten lamps
2500K   Household light bulbs
3000K   Studio lights, photo floods
4000K   Clear flashbulbs
5000K   Typical daylight; electronic flash *
5500K   The sun at noon near Kodak's offices **
55-5600K Electronic photo flash Xenon *
6000K   Bright sunshine with clear sky
7000K   Slightly overcast sky
8000K   Hazy sky
9000K   Open shade on clear day
10,000K   Heavily overcast sky
11,000K   Sunless blue skies
20,000+K   Open shade in mountains on a really clear day

* different sources have different temperatures? I've found the 5500 to be a better figure.
** a little humor since some say "daylight" is 5000K. I use the figure 5500 since it matches the number for the daylight flash.

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Author Topic: How do I improve lighting on an overcast day? (Read 7482 times)

packerguy

Squat

Perry

massman

madelaide

Squat

MAF

Karimala

gostwyck

SNP

travelstock

packerguy

redhat

Dreamframer

ptlee

tubed

RacePhoto

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