MicrostockGroup
Microstock Photography Forum - General => Photo Critique => Topic started by: richlonardo on April 24, 2015, 00:33
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Ok, Hopefully the image shows up. If not ill have to find another way. But basically need some help with isolation shots. Been working with them for the past week, after getting my light tent. Any thoughts on this?
(http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc383/RDLIFT/IMG_5309_zpsufzzu21w.jpg)
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This is another image that I'm a little concerned about, as it has a symbol on it. But that shadow underneath is there any technique I could use to minimize it more?
(http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc383/RDLIFT/IMG_5294_zpsaxe4psn1.jpg) (http://s1209.photobucket.com/user/RDLIFT/media/IMG_5294_zpsaxe4psn1.jpg.html)
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I also notice the two different white balances in the images. Both shot same time of day right after each other
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- Different white balance is due to your flash tubes fluctuating in white balance; this is common for cheaper flashes. Pro flashes are much more consistent. Just put in a grey card on all your shots, do the white balancing automatic on that in adobe camera raw (og whatever you use), and clone the grey card out of the image once you've used it.
(Note: if you shoot in JPG, you need to lock your white balance to 5500K in your camera)
- Perfect white background requires post processing here. It should take around 1-2 minutes for each image with Photoshop. Using Photoshop CC, simply:
1) With Quick Selection Tool (shortcut: w) select the part you want to keep.
2) Use Select > Refine mask (shortcut: ALT+CTRL+r) and adjust radius until it looks perfect. Use this mask to couple a mask layer on to your background layer (unlock it first). Put a layer of perfect white underneath it.
3) If any trouble areas still exist, use a Wacom digitizer or similar tablet device, to manually take care of it.
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Do you want shadows or not?
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On first, too much white space to left, not enough below. On second, way too much on left. Logo on black plastic part. Both white areas not pure white.
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- Different white balance is due to your flash tubes fluctuating in white balance; this is common for cheaper flashes. Pro flashes are much more consistent. Just put in a grey card on all your shots, do the white balancing automatic on that in adobe camera raw (og whatever you use), and clone the grey card out of the image once you've used it.
(Note: if you shoot in JPG, you need to lock your white balance to 5500K in your camera)
- Perfect white background requires post processing here. It should take around 1-2 minutes for each image with Photoshop. Using Photoshop CC, simply:
1) With Quick Selection Tool (shortcut: w) select the part you want to keep.
2) Use Select > Refine mask (shortcut: ALT+CTRL+r) and adjust radius until it looks perfect. Use this mask to couple a mask layer on to your background layer (unlock it first). Put a layer of perfect white underneath it.
3) If any trouble areas still exist, use a Wacom digitizer or similar tablet device, to manually take care of it.
Thanks for the feedback. I didnt use flash just lights. I also have canon 530ii flashes. I will try the editing technique. Thanks
Do you want shadows or not?
No shadows.
On first, too much white space to left, not enough below. On second, way too much on left. Logo on black plastic part. Both white areas not pure white.
I was going for room for text. Bad idea? Also, was a little concerned about logo. Any suggestions besides clone? Looked like crap when I cloned it out?
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If you dont want shadows then its not good as there are shadows. Light tents can be tricky, most pros advice against using them. You want a clean isolation so that the buyer can lift the object from the background easily. That also means you dont need to leave room for text as the buyer can add the isolated object to any composite image they want.
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Getting rid of logos you need the clone tool, healing tool, and sometimes you need to recreate an area by painting. And practice! :)
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If you dont want shadows then its not good as there are shadows. Light tents can be tricky, most pros advice against using them. You want a clean isolation so that the buyer can lift the object from the background easily. That also means you dont need to leave room for text as the buyer can add the isolated object to any composite image they want.
Great info. Thats exactly where I'm trying to go with my isolation shots. Im really new to shooting with a tent and noticed I'm always getting shadows. Know of any tricks, websites? Im currently just shooting with two bulbs/lightstands on each side and sometimes ill toss a flash to see what it will look like. I just got my spanners shot accepted. But don't see any use in it for the buyers.
Getting rid of logos you need the clone tool, healing tool, and sometimes you need to recreate an area by painting. And practice! :)
I tried cloning and it came out mushy. Practice practice practice I guess
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Just ignore the bickering
http://www.microstockgroup.com/general-stock-discussion/how-to-get-pure-white-background-when-isolating/ (http://www.microstockgroup.com/general-stock-discussion/how-to-get-pure-white-background-when-isolating/)
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Just ignore the bickering
[url]http://www.microstockgroup.com/general-stock-discussion/how-to-get-pure-white-background-when-isolating/[/url] ([url]http://www.microstockgroup.com/general-stock-discussion/how-to-get-pure-white-background-when-isolating/[/url])
Thank you!
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objects on white don't need to have room for text. White can be added very easy by the buyer using it. Different story if you shot those tools so on a wooden bench or table...
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objects on white don't need to have room for text. White can be added very easy by the buyer using it. Different story if you shot those tools so on a wooden bench or table...
Just now learning that. Thank you!
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place the object on a piece of glass or translucent white plastic. Elevate it (put the glass up n blocks) and get some light from below = No shadow.