Author Topic: Learning to shoot water falls (Read 4495 times)

rjmiz · « **on:** April 24, 2007, 06:36 »

Here is a pic I took of a falls. I just started shooting falls. I know NOTHING
on how to shoot falls. So I have been experimenting. I have learned I get
better results on cloudy over cast days, or when the falls is NOT in direct Sunlight.

In this shot, I used a Canon 16-35mm L f8 at 1/60 hand held (no tripod) ISO 100 and focal length was 33mm
What I pleased with is the DOF in this photo. The tree branches (the main focal point) are very sharp, while
the falls (the subject of this image) are soft and silky in the background. Not as sharp as the tree, but sharp
enough to make the image works as a whole.

wysiwyg_foto · « **Reply #1 on:** April 24, 2007, 07:42 »

A neutral density filter (or two combined) will allow you to use a slower shutter speed so that you can get the depth of field you need as well as the "silkiness" that you're looking for in the water at any time of the day (not just on cloudy overcast days). Use a tripod.

Singh-Ray filters are the equivalent of L-Glass and they make one filter that works like a circular polarizer (darkens and lightens when you turn the second glass).

http://www.singh-ray.com/grndgrads.html

sharply_done · « **Reply #2 on:** April 24, 2007, 14:20 »

Another technique that works well with water shots is to set your camera to tungsten white balance - this gives the water a very pleasing blue hue while at the same time enhancing green quite well. Give it a try!

steve-oh · « **Reply #3 on:** April 24, 2007, 15:22 »

I definitely echo this. I also have a singh-ray Neutral Grad filter for my Canon EF-S 10-22mm. Top of the line filter. However, I got it for my Cokin P holder, which isn't wide enough for the lens. You can see the holder frame at anything shorter than 17mm. they also make it for the Lee system, which is wider.

For waterfall shots I'd also suggest experimenting with a circular polarizer.

Quote from: wysiwyg_foto on April 24, 2007, 07:42

A neutral density filter (or two combined) will allow you to use a slower shutter speed so that you can get the depth of field you need as well as the "silkiness" that you're looking for in the water at any time of the day (not just on cloudy overcast days). Use a tripod.

Singh-Ray filters are the equivalent of L-Glass and they make one filter that works like a circular polarizer (darkens and lightens when you turn the second glass).

http://www.singh-ray.com/grndgrads.html

hospitalera · « **Reply #4 on:** June 08, 2007, 11:47 »

And use a tripod ;-) in future... SY

leaf · « **Reply #5 on:** June 08, 2007, 12:00 »

Quote from: sharply_done on April 24, 2007, 14:20

Another technique that works well with water shots is to set your camera to tungsten white balance - this gives the water a very pleasing blue hue while at the same time enhancing green quite well. Give it a try!

or shoot in raw and decide on the color temperature later. - but agreed, the blue hue is a nice effect.

rjmiz · « **Reply #6 on:** June 12, 2007, 06:18 »

I don't know. I realize some like the blue colorcast, but I prefer a natural image.
...or one that appears to be natural with the slightest hint of blue

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Author Topic: Learning to shoot water falls (Read 4495 times)

rjmiz

wysiwyg_foto

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hospitalera

leaf

rjmiz

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