This is not about Capitalism. It's about to be a piece of s.

Thank you shitterstock.

Gonna buy a pony.

It's over.

At this point the only decission is to remain in the sh.i.t.t..y ones or not. That's it. We can't do anything against this new normality.

Companies are not humans, they don't have feelings.

shitterstock.com

I'll stop uploading. Two years of hard work and all my workflow designed for them. So...

But I'm new on Stock. I understand you.

The massive AI rejections showed that they don't want small contributors anymore. Now It's pretty clear with this new movement.

Sad news. I will not upload anymore to them.

Nah.

I'm more worried about the low sales, this month is lower for me on SS than BS f.i.  Mi titles are always searchable in worst of cases, so they can delete several kvs on each picture if they like to do it. I'm angry all the time with SS... gonna focus on IS, they take all my stuff and it sells better there, constantly. Not in the past, but I'm dying on SS 

Hi.

I have, again, missing kvs in my pictures.

Capital ones, as the main name of the monuments in English.

I'm sick of SS. Can't understand this agency.

Well, at this point with 80/90 % of rejections It's time for holidays from SS. Gonna focus on IS, AS and AL where I have 100 % of acceptance.

I once got a legal letter from the "owners" of La Defence in Paris saying that they needed me to buy a license from them in order to sell photos of that area. I think I told them I had made $10 in my sales and so they didn't push for a retrospective license and I took the images down. This was probably 8 or 10 years back now.

Steve

Thank you for your answer.

Maybe SS has changed their criteria about these buildings for that regulation. The weird thing is that Is has no problems with these pictures, just with the Grande Arche.

Big Stock. It follows the same patterns as SS.

The delay could be just a way to lie us or a way to make us upload slowly. Before this "delay period" my pictures used to be processed in one second.

All my pictures are out of focus now. All of them in the other agencies with no problems.

I stop uploading to them.

Quote from: trabuco on April 07, 2020, 00:15

Quote from: Uncle Pete on April 03, 2020, 09:34

Same for yours. Although f/18 is a little over the top and you could be getting some diffraction, that's not going to be enough for a legitimate rejection.

I expect that both of you are smart enough and experienced enough to know that f/4 to f/8 is the sweet spot for most lenses and going higher could cause a problem. But... I doubt that either of you are getting rejections for that reason. Besides if you want to have everything from small objects close up to the distant, all in sharp focus, true f/## is the only way to get that.

I have this mental fight, my sweet spot is between 8 and 11 but I like the textures with high f numbers and I use to have grass, snow, wood or sand close to my lens. Maybe in architectural pictures I should use more this sweet spot, I use to shoot with high numbers in facades f.i.

I'm still learning, any advice is always welcome.

To each their own. The whole diffraction thing is for pixel peepers. What I mean is, say I want really, REALLY, deep depth of field, so the grass at the foot of the camera, all the way back to the clouds, is all in focus. Sometimes the only answer is f/22 (I just made that number up it could be f/16) Give a little get a little.

Sometimes f/8 is right because the foreground isn't always necessarily perfectly in focus.

Easiest rule, which is a general guide, but pretty much standard and accurate. 1/3rd in front, 2/3rds in back of the point of focus. Depends on the lens, the length, and of course f number, but there you are.  https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof

Look at hyperfocal distance, near limit and far limit. This isn't rocket science, you don't have to be precise. Just get an idea and mentally you can visualize for what lens in mm, what kind of depth of field you can expect.

I shoot most of the time with a telephoto, I don't expect much depth of field.  If I shut down, they I lose speed and get more blur. If I raise the ISO I don't like the way the grain and noise in the shadows looks. All about balance and decisions and deciding what you want. Or what you need?

Probably 1/100th of a second, f/14 ISO 100, maybe only 100mm, I didn't check. He's probably slowing down, maybe in the 100 - 120 MPH range. The nose and tale of the car, are not in focus. The background blur is from panning. The drivers head and hands are in focus. Sometimes it's fun to take on a challenge.



But that's how different anything can be from a waterfall at 400 yards? 

Night, things get more difficult.

I have to experiment with my cam, a bit lazy sometimes. When I'm outdoor I'm with my wife sometimes so I don't have a lot of time and use to shoot in the way I feel comfortable (don't want my cam banned on our trips  ). When I shoot landscapes I feel in a hurry for the light or the perfect picture that is in my mind and use to shoot too quickly.

But I need more time and calm.

The good thing of stock (the only one) is that my pictures are much much better now after one year and a half. So I'm happy about that. Maybe I need to think less in the commercial value and the things the costumer would need and more in my technique.

Thank you for the tips anyway, the calculators are amazing.