I have the manual in English. Multi gives you a huge green field. Nearly as big as the whole LCD screen. I use that when I am outside. For example when I shoot in a park, where there are trees and grass and flower beds....When I basically want everything. But I photographed a duck in a pond. I wish I would have seen something on the screen and could have used the flexible spot. One duck had already run away and just for myself I wanted to have a photo. I so much wanted the duck, I didn't see at all where the camera focused...too much sun...of course it wasn't on the duck, not even on the stones in front. Do you leave camera on centre setting all the time so that it is faster to take a photo?

I read the manual. It's not a very good one. Yes, I started using multi. That's the one I mean. I use the one you can move more and more often. However, that gave me the soft image with the asparagus. Centre I don't use at all really. I try to use multi but I am so disappointed.  For all macro flower images I use the flexible spot one. Multi works better outside I think. I am just editing an image I have taken outside a few weeks ago. I am trying to find the noise. Honestly. I am using LR and I have the noise slider on 21 and will leave it there. There is no sky in that image. My skies are always full of noise and the images taken inside. What do you do in sunlight? I can hardly see the green focus field when I am outside in sunlight. This constantly pressing on that wheel is also not exactly great.

I will try this out with ISO125. I just edited a photo using LR and simply stopped at noise removal setting 50. I am giving that to DT first. Next week I want to show the professional photographer how I use the camera and maybe I am doing something wrong. Manual focus I find horrible difficult on this camera. I found it easier on my old Canon, a film camera with a 200mm lens. I took photos of cats and just a ear of a cat. They were sharp. Unfortunately I don't have that camera any longer and haven't taken photos for years in between.

Fudio, it's written there that i moved noise removal to 30. I am sure that the camera does some noise removal when processing to JPEG. I would not be able to give the Jpeg to microstock nor art without removing more noise.

Hold on a minute, I only shot one Jpeg in bright daylight so far. The one nominated for an award was a RAW file. However, I have only edited one file so far with LR because I bought it only recently. True, all is new for me. I edited my first Jpeg files about 6 months ago and that wasn't for microstock. Changing from Windows and Corel AfterShot Pro to a MAC and yet another software in a short time also wasn't fun. I did get on very well with DXO. I was told not to go into the colour channels for microstock, not to sharpen them because the customers want to do that..... I am using Topaz Detail and Topaz Clarity for art. And that software I only bought recently. I did read yesterday that my camera makes mushy photos. It was a review from a magazine and indeed is a noise maker. I have learned a lot in 6 months. I had a 100% acceptance rate on DT and all were RAW files. The rejected ones were because they didn't want any more handbags... I got accepted at SS when I tried the first time. But like I once mentioned, they only accepted 50% of my images. So far I have only edited photos taken inside for microstock. With outside I am even more unsure how to edit them. I use Topaz Detail for art. Lightroom I need to learn first. And I think the noise removal from DXO is way better.

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I can send you the Raw file. I even remove noise a little bit for at but not as much as for microstock. At the beginning even the outside ones were rejected for noise. You may not forget that this camera has a small sensor. I had removed noise on one image, DT accepted it, SS didn't because noise . I tell you, I was sitting here searching for that little bit left over noise. I removed more and it was accepted. I get my art images rejected when there is noise in them but they never expect me to remove that much.

DifyDave, thank you. Do you take landscape photos with f8? I once had a photo rejected taken with f5.6 for not having enough dof and that was a photo taken outside with a  row of houses. I wasn't far away. I thought that food photos need to be taken with a much more than f5.6 or f8. Best with a 100mm macro lens and they should have f settings of f64. I will now lower my f setting.

Fotolia sold one of my photos today. A cat photo. A cute one. I got 1.60 credits for it. It was bought in size L. I don't understand that. A travel photo was bought in XL and I got 0.25 credits for it. Why the difference? Why did I get more for the L than the XL ?

I remember that I never shot in f8 or f11 when I used Corel for editing. Then I was told that microstock wants depth of field and I need to shoot with f8. That didn't work so well. Then I increased to f9 to f11.  I only have about 40 images on DT. But the first ones where all accepted. I have not once been rejected for soft focus by DT. The new things I put on SS I had not put on DT. However, the f setting for the Jpeg and RAW file was the same.

I just have edited the RAW. The RAW still looks worse. It gets soft when I have to set the noise removal slider so high to remove noise. I can't just leave all that noise. It will simply get rejected. I also edited again, this time using Clarity and sharpening slider. No difference. Still soft. If I don't set the noise removal so high, I still have noise. I think I will shoot in Jpeg from now on.

I just edited the RAW file completely and despite setting the sharpening slider to 35 the image is soft and not sharp. The Jpeg is still super sharp. I have not used the sharpening slider. I didn't use the Clarity slider because I didn't want to sharpen the sky. Well, the Jpeg is great and the RAW is bad. However, yesterday's image was edited using Affinity Photo. It must be the heavy noise removal that ruins the images. Maybe the camera removes already some noise when processing it into a Jpeg.

I just read the following about this camera. Maybe it's not meant for commercial photography. Not when they want that much noise removed. Here part of the review:
Depending upon how you plan to use them, the photos can be considered acceptable through the top of its sensitivity range, ISO 12800, although you probably don't want use those shots at 100 percent. The processing and noise reduction are okay, though even at ISO 400 you can start to see some mushy edges and the not-terribly-smooth out-of-focus areas that typify small-sensor cameras. Nevertheless, in-focus areas still look good up through ISO 1600.

No, I edited my sharp peanut cookies yesterday. They were shot indeed in a darker place . I normally don't take photos in my kitchen. When I reached  70 I stopped in horror but there was still noise. Noise was gone on setting 90. My cookies looked softer than soft. I checked the RAW file and they were sharp. I threw the photos in the bin. With Affinity and in outside sun I still have to go up to 50. DT accepts them. SS wants more noise removed. The accepted the sky after I removed more noise. This noise maker is no fun. Is there a lightweight camera that doesn't make noise. By the way, Serge, who owns the �2500 Sony A7R needs to pull the noise removal slider in LR to 40. That is a full frame shocking expensive camera. Price without lense. I do have the Topaz Collection. I could try removing noise with DeNoise instead of in LR.