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Messages - rimglow
Pages: 1 ... 25 26 27 28 29 [30]
726
« on: November 23, 2008, 18:35 »
How do you become a contributer? I went to the site but can't find any way.
727
« on: May 16, 2008, 08:47 »
On talking to strangers.....I don't like people I don't know. The masses are asses. Not a hard fast rule, just a guideline.
728
« on: May 05, 2008, 09:48 »
I haven't checked lately, but when I inquired about submission, they required something like 100 high res samples that were over 40 MB each. Is that still the requirement?
729
« on: April 21, 2008, 18:11 »
C'mon don't tease us. Show us the pic!
730
« on: April 21, 2008, 16:57 »
The flecks on the edge are normal, especially a feathered edge. Turn the Threshold opacity down to 40 or 50 percent to give a better representation of a feathered edge.
732
« on: April 21, 2008, 11:23 »
733
« on: April 13, 2008, 11:45 »
I just sent you the Action, I use, to remove EXIF data via email. Try it out.
734
« on: April 12, 2008, 15:25 »
735
« on: April 12, 2008, 10:33 »
The easiest method is to just open a new file, the same size as the file you have open. Drag your open file into the new file and viola, no data.
I have it set as an Action, that I found for free, somewhere by googling around.
736
« on: April 12, 2008, 09:53 »
I found a way to discover any stray pixels in white backgrounds. Add a Threshold layer, and set it to all the way black. Any pixel that's not 100% white will show up, and then you can erase it or paint it white. 95% of all my submissions are isolated, and they sell very well. Also, I remove all EXIF data. It caused too many problems on my composite shots. I would shoot four different shots of fruit, then isolate and add three, of the shots, to the first shot. The file size would grow to extra large, as I kept expanding the canvas, but the EXIF data indicated that the size was impossible for that camera. Finally grew tired of explaining that these were composite shots, and just started removing all EXIF data. http://www.istockphoto.com/file_closeup/fruits/berries/blackberry/1319687_blackberries.php?id=1319687
738
« on: March 05, 2008, 07:54 »
I've always read that it's Adobe RGB for print and SRGB for the web. Since all the photos are being viewed on the web, then it should be SRBG.
If someone is buying a microstock photo for print, they can convert.
739
« on: February 09, 2008, 11:57 »
Bad audio for me. Could barely understand some of it.
Mac OS 10.4.1
740
« on: January 02, 2008, 11:09 »
Sorry to be critical of your hard work, but this is very amateurish Photoshop work. The perspective is off and the lighting doesn't make sense. The open lid, on the shadow side, should be darker than the side itself. The open lid, in the back, should be the lightest plane in the picture. The Vanishing Point filter in CS3 has been vastly improved, so that you can now swing a grid plane to match real life perspective, but you can't rely on it that much to just make stuff up. It almost always looks off. On the plus side, your texture is very believable. Keep trying! http://www.featurepics.com/Authors/Images.aspx?id=445
741
« on: December 27, 2007, 18:13 »
I built a soft box enclosure around the product, using pvc pipe as a frame, and stretch rip stop nylon over the frame, attaching it with velcro, for easy removal. This is the perfect fabric for diffused lighting, and I've tried them all. Each side of the cage is about 26 inches, but you can cut pvc pipe to any desired length, and it fastens easily together with elbow joints.
I usually position the brightest light (Tungsten 200 watt) either over head, or behind the cage. Other lights (100 watt) on each side at various distances. I also use a light dimmer on some lights, to control the harshness. Works quite well. I do indeed shoot the subject on plexiglas a lot. That way you can slide different shades of grey, or color, underneath to prevent that harsh black shadow at the bottom.
Lastly, I am the master of masking, in Photoshop. By isolating the subject on it's own layer, you open up all kinds of possibilities for tweaking the lighting. A lot of my drop shadows are completely fake. Working in Photoshop for the last 12 years has proved very beneficial. Hope this helps!
742
« on: December 26, 2007, 17:08 »
Well, most of the stuff I upload, is throw away shots from the freelance work I do. Why let it go unused just because a client chose a different pose or went another direction with the product? It's a no brainer for me. http://www.featurepics.com/Authors/Images.aspx?id=445.
743
« on: December 24, 2007, 13:04 »
You are correct. In side by side comparisons, GF wins.
"Interpolate (upsize) the file to at least 48MB using a specialist, professional software package. We recommend Genuine Fractals although other software is equally acceptable, including Abobe Photoshop versions 7 or higher (if the bicubic option is used). Do not use step or incremental interpolation. Check your softwares default settings to ensure that sharpening is turned off. All results are assessed on their merits, regardless of the method used."
745
« on: December 24, 2007, 12:43 »
Upsize the Tiff or PSD file. JPEGs are lossy and introduce artifacts. Be sure to use Genuine Fractals to upsize. Thats what they require.
746
« on: December 20, 2007, 11:53 »
The site is down. Not good.
747
« on: December 20, 2007, 10:08 »
I love Featurepics. I had an inquiry about buying one of my photos listed on pBase. I said it would cost $150, and they replied that was fine, but could they use a credit card. I loaded it to Featurepics, priced it at $150, and it sold that afternoon. Smooth as silk! http://www.featurepics.com/Authors/Images.aspx?id=445
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