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Messages - rjmiz
Pages: 1 ... 21 22 23 24 25 [26] 27 28 29
626
« on: May 23, 2007, 06:50 »
"I just think that there isn't much to comment on, since it is well done and it is not controversial."Well, that says it all! As those who know me, I have always been considered a border line instigator. I miss the old me. 
627
« on: May 23, 2007, 05:31 »
I'm curious because I never get any responses. Perhaps this is the wrong
forum to post photoshop tutorials? Does anyone one even look at them?
628
« on: May 22, 2007, 16:06 »
Beginning to learn the pen tool in photoshop is difficult for some. I'll show you a method I used to teach myself to finally master this thing photoshop used to try to drive me CRAZY! http://microstockpix.com/tuts/path2/path2.html
629
« on: May 22, 2007, 15:11 »
For beginners, probably the most difficult tool to grasp. I'll make it easy, and promise by the end of this series of tutorials you'll finally understand how to use it in your very next project. (I promise) http://microstockpix.com/tuts/path1/path1.html
630
« on: May 21, 2007, 15:02 »
I've done a few photoshop tutorials on the web. Lately many emails come in asking me what type of photography do I do, and how do I produce my images in photoshop? Well, I used to be strictly a stock photographer, and sold quite a few images on the various stock websites. I recently changed my work flow and I gravitated more towards fine art photography. Here is a brief demo of a typical image from start to finish. http://microstockpix.com/tuts/workflow/workflow.html
631
« on: May 20, 2007, 22:51 »
Your more than welcomed Stacy
638
« on: May 18, 2007, 14:27 »
639
« on: May 18, 2007, 14:25 »
Here's a technique you can use to bring back some life to an image the would have normally died from "Over Exposure" Another in my series of performing "Photoshoptic Surgery" http://microstockpix.com/tuts/over/over.html This one will take several seconds to load
640
« on: May 16, 2007, 14:41 »
Forget about open space for text. I have NO idea how that
ever got started, or who ever suggested we help the designer by providing copy space.
Important NOTE: Don't be so bold as to think you're doing a
professional designer a favor by providing him copy space by
leaving empty space in your images.
Remember, you are an amateur photographer. You have been taught to fill the frame with your subject. (if not you are now)
Composition, framing, and balance are our credos.
HE...is a professional designer. He has been taught how to create his own copy space.
You do your job, and leave him to do his!
Oh and one more thing....
...I need to concentrate on photography in the purest sense. Making excuses for poor framing
by saying "Well I wanted to leave copy space" is ignoring the fact that I framed my image poorly.
I certainly wont accept a poorly framed image in my own gallery.
I wont tolerate my own lack of planning in the design. There is no excuse!
642
« on: May 12, 2007, 04:59 »
This time creating sunbeams from out of the clouds. This is the basic way I start this technique. It's not as refined as I do in my personal images, but it gives you an idea about how to start on your own http://microstockpix.com/tuts/sunburst/sunburst.html
644
« on: May 10, 2007, 10:23 »
I have been at this for over a year....trying to find a technique that will produce realistic sunbeams. I have tried every technique out there but none have been satisfactory. I'm interested in seeing if others have any sucess. 
645
« on: May 07, 2007, 10:58 »
Sorry not me...I have never had that problem. In fact I didn't know it even existed until a few guys mentioned it!
646
« on: May 06, 2007, 11:38 »
I use RAW images for HDR....only RAW.
Reason being is JPG's are what I call "Pre-cooked" images. They are processed by the camera and contain artifacts,
PLUS I like to post process my imgaes in 16 bit. I don't get artifacts in 16 bit. Then when I do convert them to 8 bit
to make then JPG's the are almost free of any errata from processing.
Using one RAW image and making 3 or jpg's to merger HDR is a bsolutely absurd! You lose all the dynamic range!
It's silly, crazy to do that....you gain absolutely nothing, in fact you actually LOOSE alot! Try it!
647
« on: May 06, 2007, 06:39 »
What is HDR? should..... I shoot HDR?....Are they any advantages to HDR? HDR stands for "High Dynamic Imaging" How this is accomplish is a combination of shooting technique, and software that will produce it. How this works is: You take a minimum of 3 shots of a subject on a tripod. One exposed perfectly (using any f stop of choice) and the other two...1 under and 1 overexposed changing speed. an example below  Now using software that will line up, and combine the 3 images (I use ps) you get better shadows and highlights, a more "Dynamic" range if you will. The image below demonstrates this better than I can explain it. The image left is the HDR and right the perfectly exposed image that would have been produced by the camera naturally.  A closer view below.  Why not try it! HDR works best when the image itself displays potential dynamic range. You can not squeeze HDR from an image that does NOT have Dynamic Range in the first place. So HDR is not suitable for every image you take. Where you have lots of shadows, and highlights works though.
648
« on: May 06, 2007, 02:39 »
"I don't quite understand what it is you are trying to do here."
Gee...I'm sorry you don't understand. I wish I could explain it better.
I too an baffled at your explanation. (hard fast rules?) and sweet spot. The sweet spot would not achive my results.
I will one say write a tutorial and perhaps send it to you.
What I might say though is that the blurring is selective, and NOT uniform.
Your suggestion does not allow for artistic license to blur only that which I want blurred.
The purple thing? Hmmm I don't know where that came from! It can be easily removed though.
649
« on: May 05, 2007, 17:48 »
In a new technique I've been developing, I have been experimenting with selective "focus" and selective "Lighting" Basically this involves taking a minimum of 3 images all playing with DOF by 1 shot wide open, second half way, and last the very smallest f stop. Focus on all 3 remains the same. in this example it's the leaf and bud closest to the lens. All 3 images are brought into one Photoshop image, so now I have 3 layers. f22 on top f8 middle f4 bottom I start by creating a Layer mask hide all on the top 2 Then I selectively reveal what I want to show on the layer below. I do a curves adjustment on the bottom layer if I have to. The first image is the leaves at f22 at 0.4 seconds the second image is the final image when completed  
650
« on: April 27, 2007, 08:49 »
That does not always work. In the above image I had to use the darkest images foam on a separate layer.
The HDR foam was blown out
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