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Author Topic: 5D Mark II video settings - guideline request!  (Read 9167 times)

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« on: January 18, 2011, 18:18 »
0
Hi

I recently shot some outdoors scenes with my 5D mark II and noticed some artifacts in the busy areas (trees in wind etc...). My exposure time was 1/100 pr frame and the picture style was "standard" with "sharpness 3". Should I use a longer exposure time and is sharpness 3 to much for video? I'm new to video and are never sure what settings to use. Are there guidelines out there that can help me with my video settings in different scenarios? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

cheers!


« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2011, 18:39 »
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From what I've read, you want to stick with the "180 degree" rule involving shutter speed. Also, most video shooters on cinema5d suggest turning sharpness down to 0 or even lower. That website is a fantastic resource (without much snarkiness!) for newbie videographers.

« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2011, 19:14 »
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Hi elvinstar

Thanks for the advice - I will lower my sharpness already tomorrow:-). Cinema5d Looks like a really great and active site - I'll read my night away...

Thanks a bunch!

« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2011, 21:06 »
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Adorama is starting a series of dslr video tuts on vimeo its a good introduction and the fisrts video addresses the 180 rule and describes jello effect etc.


If your doing video for stock definately shut off as many in camera effects as possible ie sharpening

« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2011, 15:26 »
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Thanks Artmyth! Useful for me..

« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2011, 15:57 »
+1
Always shoot in "M" and always shoot at a shutter speed that is twice your frame rate, so 1/60th if you're shooting 30 frames per second. In film language this is called a "180 degree shutter" and gives the most natural, cinematic motion blur. If your shot is overexposed at 1/60th, you can close the aperture or use an ND filter. Setting the shutter speed higher to 1/200 for example gives a very unnatural, stroboscopic effect (like the beach scenes in Saving Private Ryan) shooting lower at 1/30th for example gives too much motion blur, and your footage looks like bad cellphone video.

Never shoot in AWB, even if you think that it looks OK on the LCD. The camera will change the white balance on you slightly during recording, and ruin your shot.

Don't do fast pans or shoot objects that are moving quickly horizontally through the frame, or you'll fall victim to the dreaded rolling-shutter "jello effect"


You now have a decision to make:

1) shoot flat to grade later. This means setting up a custom picture style that decreases contrast in order to maximize dynamic range so that you have more data to work with in colour correction. The closest thing to RAW video you're going to get on this camera. Watch this video.

2) shoot rich to avoid grading. This means upping contrast and saturation a little in camera so that you can shoot, convert, and upload, without doing colour correction on your computer. Not great for a film, maybe a good strategy for a streamlined stock workflow.


 

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